engine CPU error scanner would help,know anyone who owns one?...

2015 Sonata that my parents just bought (used.)

The Parking Brake light on the dashboard does not turn on, even when the parking brake is pressed.

It's a foot operated parking brake.

The light itself works because it lights up with vehicle diagnostics, but doesn't do what it's supposed to do.

Any ideas?

Bring it back to the dealer as it is still under warranty.

its warranty, its a quick fix. the grounding for the parking brake does not make clear contact with the ground causing the light to not come on

I have this same issue on my Abarth. It is definitely something with the hand brake because since then I've parked with my handbrake left down but in the reverse gear, in my garage. No more clunking. Definitely something with the cold/rain that causes the hand brake to stick. Not sure what though.

I know it's under warranty but if it's something simple like that, I may as well spend 5 minutes fixing it at home than the 3 hours it's going to take at dealer lol.

Tigger, can you elaborate just a bit on what exactly isn't grounding properly? Is there an electrical switch?

If you're getting your plugs inspected, you might as well replace them.

curious, anyone have luck with just slapping pads on and calling it a day? ive always either machined or replaced rotors as ive been taught except for this one time i did my buddies 2012 civic with 40k, was at home and he wanted it done the night of. put the pads on and not less than a week later his brakes were pulsating :lol

I've heard of this put in practice but after that experience... no thx. i've had to decline work b/c i dont have access to a laive anymore.

Of all the years i was at Honda, rotor machining is always recommended while replacing pads.
But for my own personal cars, i may have only machined maybe couple times. That was when i was removing an aftermarket pad to install Honda pad.
Most aftermarket pads i found, the material was too hard and would wear the rotor as fast as the pad.
A 2012 civic with only 40k, from what i've seen in the past, rotor would still be in fine shape to just drop in a set of pads.

I also had the same thinking, glad to know its worked out for you in the past. It may have very well just been my luck

Depends on the condition of the rotor and how the person will be driving, and the cost of rotors and pads. If the rotors are cheap, I just buy new ones. If the rotors are pricey but in good shape I just replace the pads since pads are usually fairly cheap, so even if they wear out sooner because of the rotors it's not a big difference overall.

I've swapped from stock pads to Hawk DTC-30's and 60's (race pads...) on the same rotors, I wouldn't really recommend it, but do as I say not as I do right? :lawl:

ask the guys at work haha

Recently my GD3 Fit while pumping gas has been overflowing and spilling out by the first click. However, both these times it was at least 2 or 3 litres away from a full tank.

Any possible explanations? If it matters it was at the Shell at Main/2nd and Chevron Nanaimo/1st

:yuno:

take it to the dealer dude. if there's something else wrong and you start messing with it (since you clearly have no idea what he's talkin about), they might not warranty it.

reminds me of a time an 08 or 09 Accord came in for rough running. Long story short, found bad murky colored gas. I removed the pump, siphoned the tank dry and got my hand in the tank and was able to wipe it clean with some rags. Brought the car to the gas station, but couldn't get any gas into the tank. Would just over spill. Brought the car back to the shop and found this...below...jellybeans.

Originaly thought it was just bad gas from the station. Uppon closer look, i could see pry marks around the fuel lid door.

Not saying this is your problem, just brought back memories

My TSX compliance bushings are cracked. In terms of effort vs. time & money is it worth to change it myself or bring it to shop? I researched some DIY's onilne and looks I might need a kit/tool to press out the bushings. Thoughts or experiences?

Bushings fucking suck to replace.

We don't know what tools you have, how much you value your time and level of mechanical experience. I'd research the cost of parts, including how much a complete LCA is (some are actually pretty affordable) vs. how much a shop would charge to change the one bushing.

You're better off getting it done at a shop. control arms (2 bolts, nut and splitting ball joint loose) have to be removed and bushings pressed out.

Hoping an RS member can come to the rescue!

I need someone to come and weld a nut to this messed up bolt so I can crack it loose. Car is located near Metrotown. Engine is still in the car so it might be a little tight to work on.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v7...328_171538.jpg

check out this video to see what i'm talking about

I had this done on my TSX a couple of years ago.
Here's the breakdown from my invoice:
$34.74 for parts
$400 for labour
$80 for an alignment after the bushings were replaced

Then throw in taxes. Not exactly cheap. As you can tell, it's mostly labour. If you want it done at Acura, look up jaemc on here. He's a service adviser at Burrard Acura and can hook you up with at least a bit of a discount.

I'm looking at doing this myself as well. Another option is go for new control arms off rock auto. Much easier for the DIY, but you still need an alignment.

You won't get too many chances at this. Personally, i'd call a mobile welding place. It's hard to tell, but it looks like it broke quite deep into the opening, no? Have you tried an easy out? How much is the new part you Fuxuored?

It looks like a regular bolt but with a internal hex drive and built-in washer. If the OP hasn't got it out yet, I can do it. Get back to me if you haven't.