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I do park it outside now but it was happening as well when parked underground (though infrequent - maybe 2-3 times) though wetness probably plays a part.
Nope, always only when going forward. Have never heard the sound when backing up (though it's rarely backed up while cold)
I have this same issue on my Abarth. It is definitely something with the hand brake because since then I've parked with my handbrake left down but in the reverse gear, in my garage. No more clunking. Definitely something with the cold/rain that causes the hand brake to stick. Not sure what though.
Bring it back to the dealer as it is still under warranty.
Quote:
Originally Posted by !Tigger
its warranty, its a quick fix. the grounding for the parking brake does not make clear contact with the ground causing the light to not come on
I know it's under warranty but if it's something simple like that, I may as well spend 5 minutes fixing it at home than the 3 hours it's going to take at dealer lol.
Tigger, can you elaborate just a bit on what exactly isn't grounding properly? Is there an electrical switch?
pre-2007 Elements didn't have MAF sensors, rather they used MAP sensors, but next time the car is in the shop for CV axles I'll get them to check out the plugs and coil packs.
If you're getting your plugs inspected, you might as well replace them.
curious, anyone have luck with just slapping pads on and calling it a day? ive always either machined or replaced rotors as ive been taught except for this one time i did my buddies 2012 civic with 40k, was at home and he wanted it done the night of. put the pads on and not less than a week later his brakes were pulsating
I've heard of this put in practice but after that experience... no thx. i've had to decline work b/c i dont have access to a laive anymore.
curious, anyone have luck with just slapping pads on and calling it a day? ive always either machined or replaced rotors as ive been taught except for this one time i did my buddies 2012 civic with 40k, was at home and he wanted it done the night of. put the pads on and not less than a week later his brakes were pulsating
I've heard of this put in practice but after that experience... no thx. i've had to decline work b/c i dont have access to a laive anymore.
Of all the years i was at Honda, rotor machining is always recommended while replacing pads.
But for my own personal cars, i may have only machined maybe couple times. That was when i was removing an aftermarket pad to install Honda pad.
Most aftermarket pads i found, the material was too hard and would wear the rotor as fast as the pad.
A 2012 civic with only 40k, from what i've seen in the past, rotor would still be in fine shape to just drop in a set of pads.
__________________ Don't open your hood to strangers........ N 'ouvrez pas votre capot à des inconnus
Depends on the condition of the rotor and how the person will be driving, and the cost of rotors and pads. If the rotors are cheap, I just buy new ones. If the rotors are pricey but in good shape I just replace the pads since pads are usually fairly cheap, so even if they wear out sooner because of the rotors it's not a big difference overall.
__________________ 1991 Toyota Celica GTFour RC // 2007 Toyota Rav4 V6 // 2000 Jeep Grand Cherokee
1992 Toyota Celica GT-S ["sold"] \\ 2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee CRD [sold] \\ 2000 Jeep Cherokee [sold] \\ 1997 Honda Prelude [sold] \\ 1992 Jeep YJ [sold/crashed] \\ 1987 Mazda RX-7 [sold] \\ 1987 Toyota Celica GT-S [crushed]
Quote:
Originally Posted by maksimizer
half those dudes are hotter than ,my GF.
Quote:
Originally Posted by RevYouUp
reading this thread is like waiting for goku to charge up a spirit bomb in dragon ball z
Quote:
Originally Posted by Good_KarMa
OH thank god. I thought u had sex with my wife. :cry:
I've swapped from stock pads to Hawk DTC-30's and 60's (race pads...) on the same rotors, I wouldn't really recommend it, but do as I say not as I do right?
curious, anyone have luck with just slapping pads on and calling it a day? ive always either machined or replaced rotors as ive been taught except for this one time i did my buddies 2012 civic with 40k, was at home and he wanted it done the night of. put the pads on and not less than a week later his brakes were pulsating
I've heard of this put in practice but after that experience... no thx. i've had to decline work b/c i dont have access to a laive anymore.
Recently my GD3 Fit while pumping gas has been overflowing and spilling out by the first click. However, both these times it was at least 2 or 3 litres away from a full tank.
Any possible explanations? If it matters it was at the Shell at Main/2nd and Chevron Nanaimo/1st
I know it's under warranty but if it's something simple like that, I may as well spend 5 minutes fixing it at home than the 3 hours it's going to take at dealer lol.
Tigger, can you elaborate just a bit on what exactly isn't grounding properly? Is there an electrical switch?
take it to the dealer dude. if there's something else wrong and you start messing with it (since you clearly have no idea what he's talkin about), they might not warranty it.
Recently my GD3 Fit while pumping gas has been overflowing and spilling out by the first click. However, both these times it was at least 2 or 3 litres away from a full tank.
Any possible explanations? If it matters it was at the Shell at Main/2nd and Chevron Nanaimo/1st
reminds me of a time an 08 or 09 Accord came in for rough running. Long story short, found bad murky colored gas. I removed the pump, siphoned the tank dry and got my hand in the tank and was able to wipe it clean with some rags. Brought the car to the gas station, but couldn't get any gas into the tank. Would just over spill. Brought the car back to the shop and found this...below...jellybeans.
Originaly thought it was just bad gas from the station. Uppon closer look, i could see pry marks around the fuel lid door.
Not saying this is your problem, just brought back memories
__________________ Don't open your hood to strangers........ N 'ouvrez pas votre capot à des inconnus
My TSX compliance bushings are cracked. In terms of effort vs. time & money is it worth to change it myself or bring it to shop? I researched some DIY's onilne and looks I might need a kit/tool to press out the bushings. Thoughts or experiences?
We don't know what tools you have, how much you value your time and level of mechanical experience. I'd research the cost of parts, including how much a complete LCA is (some are actually pretty affordable) vs. how much a shop would charge to change the one bushing.
Originally posted by v.b. can we stop, my pussy hurts... Originally posted by asian_XL fliptuner, I am gonna grab ur dick and pee in your face, then rub shit all over my face...:lol Originally posted by Fei-Ji haha i can taste the cum in my mouth Originally posted by FastAnna when I was 13 I wanted to be a video hoe so bad
I need someone to come and weld a nut to this messed up bolt so I can crack it loose. Car is located near Metrotown. Engine is still in the car so it might be a little tight to work on.
check out this video to see what i'm talking about
My TSX compliance bushings are cracked. In terms of effort vs. time & money is it worth to change it myself or bring it to shop? I researched some DIY's onilne and looks I might need a kit/tool to press out the bushings. Thoughts or experiences?
I had this done on my TSX a couple of years ago.
Here's the breakdown from my invoice:
$34.74 for parts
$400 for labour
$80 for an alignment after the bushings were replaced
Then throw in taxes. Not exactly cheap. As you can tell, it's mostly labour. If you want it done at Acura, look up jaemc on here. He's a service adviser at Burrard Acura and can hook you up with at least a bit of a discount.
I'm looking at doing this myself as well. Another option is go for new control arms off rock auto. Much easier for the DIY, but you still need an alignment.
I need someone to come and weld a nut to this messed up bolt so I can crack it loose. Car is located near Metrotown. Engine is still in the car so it might be a little tight to work on.
You won't get too many chances at this. Personally, i'd call a mobile welding place. It's hard to tell, but it looks like it broke quite deep into the opening, no? Have you tried an easy out? How much is the new part you Fuxuored?
You won't get too many chances at this. Personally, i'd call a mobile welding place. It's hard to tell, but it looks like it broke quite deep into the opening, no? Have you tried an easy out? How much is the new part you Fuxuored?
It looks like a regular bolt but with a internal hex drive and built-in washer. If the OP hasn't got it out yet, I can do it. Get back to me if you haven't.
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