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-   -   The Mechanical Advice Thread (https://www.revscene.net/forums/695671-mechanical-advice-thread.html)

Lomac 06-04-2014 05:43 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MindBomber (Post 8480580)
You might even ask for someone to lend you a 12mm socket at 1am and have Lomac, MG1, CRS, and myself show up at your house to help lower your car..........

:fullofwin: Good times.



As an aside to everyone, however, remember we do have actual tech forums with a lot of information already posted in 'em. Plus some great stickies written by yours truly. ;)

underscore 06-04-2014 07:45 AM

@MindBomber: When you rotate it, is there pressure on it? If there's pressure on the clip it might not rotate when the shaft does. Alternately, could you just rebuild the CV with the stub still in the tranny?

Phil@rise 06-04-2014 08:01 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MindBomber (Post 8481331)
Cow bell?

Yes you need more of it

SpeedStars 06-04-2014 08:02 PM

:devil:
Quote:

Originally Posted by SpeedStars (Post 8481646)
Yep I've got LCAs, I'll check that out tomorrow to see if its hitting anything from underneath

Update: checked LCA, all good no possible contact with the car. All nuts are stiff and no cracks. Checked the sway bar and its stiff with no play. Haven't checked the suspension bushing though. I also checked the top hat on my suspension and it seems fine. However, the sound is definitely coming from that area. With regards to the car I'm working on, its my prelude which is a 97 base with tein coilovers and 235 tires (I think this is the max width without rubbing issues?)

dared3vil0 06-04-2014 09:23 PM

Good luck man.

underscore 06-04-2014 09:30 PM

Check the bushings and maybe swap out that strut if you can, I've heard of them making noise in rare cases.

Klobbersaurus 06-04-2014 10:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SpeedStars (Post 8482139)
:devil:

Update: checked LCA, all good no possible contact with the car. All nuts are stiff and no cracks. Checked the sway bar and its stiff with no play. Haven't checked the suspension bushing though. I also checked the top hat on my suspension and it seems fine. However, the sound is definitely coming from that area. With regards to the car I'm working on, its my prelude which is a 97 base with tein coilovers and 235 tires (I think this is the max width without rubbing issues?)

have a buddy get into your trunk while its making that noise and see if he cant help you narrow down what side is making the noise, and if its a coilover issue or another suspension part

MindBomber 06-06-2014 10:59 PM

Update, we took it to a pro who was also not able to get it loose. Unreal. We then resigned and rebuilt it with the end in the tranny.

I appreciate the suggestion to do that Flip and Underscore.

fliptuner 06-07-2014 09:53 AM

Good to hear the joint was fixed.

I'd still be annoyed that the reason for it being stuck wasn't figured out though (because OCD).

heleu 06-07-2014 01:40 PM

I have shaking in my steering that happens when I brake above 100 km/hr. I had front rotors changed last year, and rear ones changed a month ago.

I also noticed that there is a wrinkle in one of the front tire sidewall. Tire noise seems to be higher at freeway speeds.

Any ideas? I thought it was warped rotors, but the brakes were just done.

fliptuner 06-07-2014 01:43 PM

The front brakes are a year old so it could still be that.

If you suspect it's the tires, swap them front to rear and see what happens.

Does the brake pedal vibrate when you brake, lightly, at +90km/hr?

godwin 06-07-2014 02:15 PM

How old is your car? Could be bushings that are worn too, when you brake there are force transfer to the suspension.

Quote:

Originally Posted by heleu (Post 8483388)
I have shaking in my steering that happens when I brake above 100 km/hr. I had front rotors changed last year, and rear ones changed a month ago.

I also noticed that there is a wrinkle in one of the front tire sidewall. Tire noise seems to be higher at freeway speeds.

Any ideas? I thought it was warped rotors, but the brakes were just done.


MindBomber 06-07-2014 02:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ICE BOY (Post 8483303)
Good to hear the joint was fixed.

I'd still be annoyed that the reason for it being stuck wasn't figured out though (because OCD).

I'm definitely annoyed. I wish I had the time to not admit defeat but I don't and the shop wasn't willing to spend any further hours on it because we negotiated a flat rate for it. It's so weird that it's so stuck.

freakshow 06-08-2014 03:50 PM

Have a problem.. my spoiler brake light went out, and they shipped me a new one.. It's single piece CF spoiler with the wire running all the way through. So when taking out the wire, I had to fish the wire through from end to end. I ended up with a string all the way through. Then I just had to attach the new wire to the string and pull it through. Unfortunately, they came a part. Now I'm stuck because I need to somehow fish the wire from one hole to the other.. any tips on how to do this?

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...iler_wires.jpg

fliptuner 06-08-2014 05:06 PM

Maybe try tying string to a piece of metal, then use a strong magnet wrapped in a rag to guide it towards the hole. Then have some sort of hook at the exit to grab the string.

Iron Chef 06-08-2014 05:18 PM

Use mechanics wire or home wiring that's rigid and fish it through

freakshow 06-08-2014 05:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ICE BOY (Post 8483923)
Maybe try tying string to a piece of metal, then use a strong magnet wrapped in a rag to guide it towards the hole. Then have some sort of hook at the exit to grab the string.

Actually just in the middle of trying that! I took apart a hard drive to try to find some strong magnets.. they're fairly strong. Now I just need some really small piece of metal to guide it through.. and hope the magnet is strong enough

underscore 06-09-2014 12:03 PM

get two strong magnets and something like fishing line, punch a small hole in one magnet, tie the line to it and then do what ICE BOY said. You should be able to get the weight of the magnet to pull the line most of the way by just carefully tilting the spoiler.

Bahhbeehhaaaa 06-09-2014 12:19 PM

Hi there,

any recommendation on taking my 2010 ML350 for maintenance and repairs?

fliptuner 06-09-2014 01:14 PM

Freakshow, any luck?

freakshow 06-09-2014 01:37 PM

Not yet, didn't get a chance to do more last night.. I just need to find a small strong piece of metal that can go inside the hole. Then I should be good to go.. I'll keep you posted

underscore 06-09-2014 01:44 PM

If those fail I've got another idea but I think it would be pretty frustrating to try.

jing 06-09-2014 05:10 PM

I attempted to gravity bleed my brakes just now and ran through a whole quart but my brake pedal still doesn't have the stiffness I was expecting. I should note that only on the last corner (front left) did the reservoir actually start draining on its own all the way through the bleeder nipple. I worked from rear right, rear left, to front right, then front left. Every time I cracked open the bleeder the fluid would come out as expected, but would stop maybe about 10 seconds in. Pretty sure I either skipped some step or I did something but am not quite sure. I'm guessing part of the problem is that when I did the rears, I only had the rears jacked up with 2 jackstands so I guess the BMC was almost level with the rears? Ionno, maybe someone can chime in.

inv4zn 06-09-2014 05:18 PM

This thread is becoming the equivalent of many people shouting at many other people in a room about many different topics, and is immensely hard to follow lol.

fliptuner 06-09-2014 05:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jing (Post 8484446)
I attempted to gravity bleed my brakes just now and ran through a whole quart but my brake pedal still doesn't have the stiffness I was expecting. I should note that only on the last corner (front left) did the reservoir actually start draining on its own all the way through the bleeder nipple. I worked from rear right, rear left, to front right, then front left. Every time I cracked open the bleeder the fluid would come out as expected, but would stop maybe about 10 seconds in. Pretty sure I either skipped some step or I did something but am not quite sure. I'm guessing part of the problem is that when I did the rears, I only had the rears jacked up with 2 jackstands so I guess the BMC was almost level with the rears? Ionno, maybe someone can chime in.

PH brake bleed meet at your house, you buy the beer.

semi-srs :lol


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