'99 Skyline R34 GTT, supposedly has a Tomei 2-way LSD, at slow speeds if I use the accelerator at all the rear shudders quite heavily, especially when turning. It's gotten progressively louder and more shuddery since I bought the car. It's pretty damn annoying. I know that LSDs tend to shudder but this seems like it's a bit too much. It makes driving at low speeds frustrating

Would replacing the oil help? I've picked up some oil and LSD additive.

Additionally, if I were to want to go back to stock, could pretty much any shop do it? Obviously I'd have to somehow get my hands on whatever's stock which may prove difficult.

From what you are describing, sounds like the LSD might be failing. It sounds like the LSD is not giving enough slip when you're turning.

Changing the oil might be the cheapest solution to see if it helps things. If that doesn't help, you might have to open up the differential to see the problem.

Oh, did you do a visual inspection of the rear diff, input shaft, output shafts, and CV axles?

Can that LSD be shimmed? Somebody might have set it up too tight. Or the diff mounting bushings could be worn out and letting things slop around.

Got it on a lift, did a visual check on all components around there for any play or issues and it all seems good.

I replaced the oil and additive and after a little bit of driving the shuddering went away. However after being parked overnight it did make the shuddering (albeit much softer) again until I drove it a bit and again it goes away. Not sure why, but does seem to be better once the oil is hot

The used oil looked clean, and there were no metal filings on the magnetic fill or drain holes.

This is a easy one... If I use extension on a torque wrench how do I calculate the difference in torque spec due to the extension?

Torque Wrench Extension Calculator

I'm slightly confused by this. Are you talking about sticking a pipe onto a torque wrench to get extra leverage? In my mind, the torque wrench readings will be correct.

Or

Are you talking about using some sort of extension, or lever on the "socket" side of the torque wrench? I think the equation above is if your changing the actual lever arm where the socket sits on.

You shouldn't need to, assuming that the wrench is sensing the torque at the pivot point.

No not changing the actual arm sticking a extension in the socket side. Guess I won't need the equation than?

Ohhhh you're putting an extension between the socket and the torque wrench? Should be fine as long as it isn't super long.

2002 Civic DX

The gas gauge is off. Noticed the last couple of fill ups that it wasn't popping to indicate that its full.

Now its driven past 200 kms and the needle is still close to full.
No CEL so far.
what could this be?

Do you guys recommend dropping the transmission pan to change the filter or would just a drain and fill be sufficient for the life of the car? 2007 G35x with 120km.

Need some advice on a Volkwagen O2J transmission!

Trying to remove the 4 pivot pins and one of them has gotten stuck in the transmission.

Any idea on how to get it out, preferably without wrecking anything!

This is what the other three that came out look like.http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/i...psvo2hoikm.jpg

This is the piece that is stuck. Any ideas on how to pull it out?
http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/i...pscndsunjt.jpg

Use a little bit of heat to break the bond and use a pair of expanding pliers in the hole and try pulling it out.

I'm planning to do a coolant drain and fill on my 06' TSX.

Prior to draining the coolant, you are supposed to have the climate control turn to HIGH to let the coolant drain from the heater block.

After draining I need to bleed the air out of the system and have the engine warm up so that radiator fan cycles 2x.

My question is...during the air bleeding process, do I need to have the climate control on HIGH or leave it off? Would anyone suggest using a spill free funnel? or just do it with a loose radiator cap?

Thanks in advance!

I suggest you turn engine on and turn on the heater when you are circulating to flush out the coolant (instead of just let the coolant in the heater block drain out)

You leave the heater on, during the bleeding process, mainly to get as much coolant in as possible.

Not sure why you need a spill free funnel.. it is going to make a big mess either way.. make sure you have a your water house running the dilute and clean the mess.

If you have the heat set to max when you drain (which you should) it should be set to max when you're filling and burping it too. Depending on how your car works you may need to keep the key turned to ON (not running) so everything stays open. The spill free funnels are nice but not necessary. Keep lots of paper towel handy, leave a catch pan under the rad to catch drips and when you're done let things cool for a bit. Once the coolant left in the funnel is just warm, if it's low you can just jam your finger (wear a rubber glove) in the hole to keep from spilling, or take a small socket, put it on an extension, put a glove around it and jam that in the funnel. If you're gonna do that figure out what size you need ahead of time with some regular water.

Also at risk of stating the obvious that's the temperature setting to max, not the fan speed to max.

So wondering how to diagnose engine noise. How to tell if it's a exhaust leak vs something coming from the engine?

There is a gentle tap tap tap on idel that get louder when I step on the gas. Say when I'm cruising and I let off the gas the it goes quiet. It doesn't seem to get faster when I rev but it does get louder. It's a b16a of unknown version on straight pipe. New spark plug new oil. I did recently took apart the head and reassemble it to fix a even louder tick. Now that that tick is gone I'm not sure if this noise came from me taking it apart or it was there the whole time just mask by the even louder tick I fixed.

Having it look at in two weeks for this and other problems.wanna get an idea whether I should even drive it during the two week. It running on a tank of 87 gas that I put in months and months ago so j really want to ran it down and try some higher octane gas.

EDIT: it's got no cel. Fuel pressure seem good around 35psi

If it's an exhaust leak, you should be able to find it by feeling around the connections and manifold.

Were the valves adjusted after you did the top end? Might be worth checking again.

Will try to find the possible leak. Could I also plug the exhaust hole with say a wet cloth and see if fume comes out throughly the pipe? Laying on my back undernearth a hot exhaust doesn't sound too appealing

And no the valves were not adjusted. I might go ahead and do that before I bring it into the shop. Now where do I get the feeler gauge tool and the adjustment tool for use with flathead?

Do it in the morning. :troll:

You can get a feeler gauge at any parts store. Google the best style to use for a B series. All you should need is a 10 or 12mm box end wrench and a flathead for the valves and a socket, extension and ratchet to turn the crank (19 or 21mm iirc).

So the car just died on me on the way home. Probabaly shouldn't have done it. I vtech it a few times and when I'm almost home it just slowly lose power and died. Lights were all on when it happened. I started it again and it started right up. It always had a problem of not being able to hold idel right at start up I have to help it a little with the gas pedal before it will settle at a idle. Idel good though after it started up. Now that I think about it one of my hid tends to flicker when I accelerate. Does it sound like alternator problem? Would also explain the strange noise?

My Honda Fit GD3 'hiccups' from time to time during stop lights and sometimes even when I'm accelerating. Anybody have an idea what might be wrong

I peeled off some of the seam sealer on my rear fenders when I rolled them (common on 2nd gen speed3s and newer wrx/stis). I ended up sanding down the areas that peeled off and spraying two layers of clear coat I had in my garage. The remaining seam sealer is starting to lift and I'm contemplating pulling all of it off.

My question is if I peel the whole thing off. is it best to sand then spray with primer/paint/clear, or por15, or another layer of seam sealer? I'm concerned of rust building up on these areas. Not concerned of anything behind the fender lip/fender as it's not completely flat and I can still fit a cloth between to clean out any dirt/etc.

When my alternator started to die, the battery light on the dash would flash. Measure your battery voltage when the car is running, it should be over 14v.