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Vancouver Auto Chat 2016 VAC Community Head Moderator: Raid3n

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Old 12-30-2018, 05:40 PM   #601
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Just an update: I replaced the coil pack and ICM at the same time cause I didn't want to bother troubleshooting anymore. Car started right up. Thanks for the help guys!
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Old 05-03-2019, 07:36 PM   #602
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Jump started a 2015 Mazda 3 and now it's turn signals don't work. Hazards work normal. When I use the turn signals, nothing lights up outside, but the gauge cluster arrow flashes really fast as if a bulb is burnt out.

None of the fuses under the hood are labelled "turn signals" or something else obvious. Closest thing was "hazard" but the hazards are working fine.
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Old 05-03-2019, 09:13 PM   #603
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Have you checked the inside fusebox?
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Old 05-03-2019, 09:25 PM   #604
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Originally Posted by ssjGoku69 View Post
Have you checked the inside fusebox?
I ended up checking continuity on every fuse under the hood and driver footwell. Nothing blown.

I also found more problems.
With car off, hazards work, high beams work.
Ignition on or car running, hazards don't work, high beams don't work, turn signals don't work.
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Old 05-03-2019, 10:31 PM   #605
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Changing the rear diff on a 1999 Nissan pathfinder, first time doing this job. Looks like a piece of cake.

any good websites to check what gear oil to use, I used Amsoil.

Another question, what are some shops charging for diff change? Great Canadian Oil is charging 70, same as an Oil change. Which is on the upper end I figure.

what? 2.7 litres on the rear, so cost wise? 30 bucks in product? for the cheap stuff?
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Old 05-04-2019, 06:51 AM   #606
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Make sure to open the fill cap, prior to draining the old oil. My only recommendation.
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Old 05-04-2019, 09:54 AM   #607
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I ended up checking continuity on every fuse under the hood and driver footwell. Nothing blown.

I also found more problems.
With car off, hazards work, high beams work.
Ignition on or car running, hazards don't work, high beams don't work, turn signals don't work.
Bad relay?
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Old 05-04-2019, 11:03 AM   #608
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Bad relay?
Tried swapping relays within the fuse box, problem persists
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Old 05-04-2019, 01:28 PM   #609
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Tried swapping relays within the fuse box, problem persists
Loosen grounds and retighten them
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Old 05-07-2019, 05:18 PM   #610
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Might be changing out my ignition distributor,

Without a timing light, any real difficulties? Doesn't look too terrible, but can be if I forget to mark stuff.
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Old 05-07-2019, 06:15 PM   #611
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Might be changing out my ignition distributor,

Without a timing light, any real difficulties? Doesn't look too terrible, but can be if I forget to mark stuff.
I wouldn't do it without a timing light to ensure that the timing is right on. I don't know which engine you are working on but some are gear driven and you have to make sure that you note the position of the rotor and reinstall the new distributor with the rotor in the same position.
I can lend you a timing light if you don't have access to one.
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Old 05-08-2019, 07:56 AM   #612
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Might be changing out my ignition distributor,

Without a timing light, any real difficulties? Doesn't look too terrible, but can be if I forget to mark stuff.
What car?
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Old 06-02-2019, 04:15 PM   #613
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How do I properly clamp together exhaust pieces that are slightly different sizes? The piping is 2.5" and I bought a 2.5" resonator but it's a decent bit bigger than the piping (with the resonator ends going over the piping). A 2.5" clamp is too small, a 2.75" fits and pinches down the top and bottom but the sides have gaps.

I'm using this type of clamp, I'm guessing they're the worst ones to use but I didn't want to order anything online and risk it not fitting.

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Old 06-02-2019, 04:45 PM   #614
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How do I properly clamp together exhaust pieces that are slightly different sizes? The piping is 2.5" and I bought a 2.5" resonator but it's a decent bit bigger than the piping (with the resonator ends going over the piping). A 2.5" clamp is too small, a 2.75" fits and pinches down the top and bottom but the sides have gaps.

I'm using this type of clamp, I'm guessing they're the worst ones to use but I didn't want to order anything online and risk it not fitting.

Have you tried the flat band exhaust clamps?
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Old 06-02-2019, 05:05 PM   #615
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I have not, I assume you mean this type?



Vibrant sells them in 2.5" so I would think they'd fit the Vibrant resonator fairly well?
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Old 06-02-2019, 05:13 PM   #616
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hey all,

Not a mechanical issue, but are there RSX owners here that have an issue with their power door locks and trunk lock?

it doesnt work when the temperature is hot(parked outside on a sunny day), but when its cold (at night) it works perfectly fine

I did some google'ing and seems like majority of the owners just replaced the door and trunk actuators because it didnt work at all

Is there some DIY ways i can approach this issue since the locks do seem to work as long as its the temperature is cool out

Thanks
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Old 06-02-2019, 05:32 PM   #617
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i did the driver side one on mine...sounds like your's is just on its way out
i hate working door panels...tight spaces

for a while my trunk one was acting funny...banged it a few times and it never had problems again but i put a small dent in the process
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Old 06-02-2019, 06:44 PM   #618
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The TSX has door lock issues as well. I did the first one that broke, then sent the second to Honda. Too many little plastic clips to break.
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Old 06-02-2019, 07:20 PM   #619
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How do I properly clamp together exhaust pieces that are slightly different sizes? The piping is 2.5" and I bought a 2.5" resonator but it's a decent bit bigger than the piping (with the resonator ends going over the piping). A 2.5" clamp is too small, a 2.75" fits and pinches down the top and bottom but the sides have gaps.

I'm using this type of clamp, I'm guessing they're the worst ones to use but I didn't want to order anything online and risk it not fitting.

Go to a muffler shop and have them expand a piece of tubing to fit on the outside of your piping and inside the resonator, then clamp it down. Sort of like an adapter insert.

I used to have a pipe expander that I used just for that. I'll have a look around to see if I still have it. You can expand the pipe to fit the resonator and then use a clamp. The only problem with band clamps is that they don't distort the metal to hold the pieces together.
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Old 06-02-2019, 07:37 PM   #620
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I do believe Canadian tire has a pipe expander for rent if your outside of Vancouver.
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Old 06-02-2019, 08:29 PM   #621
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I'm in Kelowna so I'll call CT in the morning and see if they have an expander. If that doesn't work instead of modifying piping to fit in the gap is there a reason I couldn't cut a strip of stainless sheet metal to wrap in between? It'd need to be carefully made to just the right length but I've got a bunch sitting here already.

It's not a huge gap but you can see in the picture I've been able to squish two sides in but there's still a gap the other way. I can jam the 2.5" clamp on the "skinny" way but it still spreads the ends too far apart to get the nut end on.

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Old 06-02-2019, 09:34 PM   #622
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When I was doing the exhaust on my truck, any little opening would create a whistling noise. Just drove me crazy. The clamp should completely encircle the pipe with contact all the way around the outside. Maybe expand the pipe to fit the resonator and then slop some muffler cement inside the connection before installing the clamp.
It looks like the clamp in the picture is the correct size.
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Old 06-02-2019, 09:47 PM   #623
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need insight on electrical: can't start after sitting for more than few days

starter rebuilt 6 mos ago

new battery 8 months ago

still on original alternator

cranks briefly but appears to have no juice

bring out meter to test alternator then parasitic draw?

06 rsx
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Old 06-03-2019, 07:39 AM   #624
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I'm in Kelowna so I'll call CT in the morning and see if they have an expander. If that doesn't work instead of modifying piping to fit in the gap is there a reason I couldn't cut a strip of stainless sheet metal to wrap in between? It'd need to be carefully made to just the right length but I've got a bunch sitting here already.

It's not a huge gap but you can see in the picture I've been able to squish two sides in but there's still a gap the other way. I can jam the 2.5" clamp on the "skinny" way but it still spreads the ends too far apart to get the nut end on.

I’d do that before filling the gaps with muffler cement. But the more seals you have to make, the more chances of eventual leaks. If all else fails, use a combination of sheet metal and muffler cement! There is also band style clamps which look pretty cool. They don’t distort the pipes like what your using. Can get them in a configurations of overlap like you have or butted together.

https://www.amazon.ca/Walker-33976-A...gateway&sr=8-4


^like this
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Old 06-03-2019, 07:41 AM   #625
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need insight on electrical: can't start after sitting for more than few days

starter rebuilt 6 mos ago

new battery 8 months ago

still on original alternator

cranks briefly but appears to have no juice

bring out meter to test alternator then parasitic draw?

06 rsx
Is the vehicle charging when running (eg 13v+)?

Is there a draw when vehicle off (meter measuring draw when vehicle off for a few minutes, no doors open etc)

Get battery tested (it still probably has a warranty).
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