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Digging this thread up. Recently put my second car back on the road, 2010 STi. It had quite a wobble at 97kmh but would mostly go away if you went faster. The oem wheels were old/curbed etc, tires were 10+ years old and they leaked. So I got new wheels and tires for it. Threw them on the other day but the vibration is still there. Less sure, and it’s moved up to about 105kmh. Let’s assume the wheels are correctly balanced.
Could a poor alignment cause a steering shimmy? [The alignment in my RS has always been shit but has not caused any poor driving characteristics, no vibes]. An alignment for the STi is not much money but I wouldn’t have it done until I replace the stock tophats that I can see some cracks in.
**edit**
Looking in the history I see some related bits. Probably more detail but I wrote down the abridged versions. previous owner kept every receipt, all dealer serviced so a while ago I made an abridged version on my phone. Some related stuff
- recently new motor/trans/shifter mounts and bushings. New wheels and tires
- 05/29/2020 winter swap, alignment,
- 07/18/2019 - oil change, LR wheel bearing/hub, front control bushings, sway bar endlinks/bushings
- 11/15/2018 - oil change, injector cleaner, oil additive, alignment, battery
- 03/08/2018 - ABDF oil change, oil additive fuel treatment, spark plugs, diff oil, lsd diff oil, “tune up kit”, alignment
- 01/23/2017 - RR wheel bearing/hub assembly
** edit 2**
I have no idea if this is normal. My STi has incredibly light steering. Single finger all the time and I don’t like it. It’s also extremely responsive steering with a quick rack ratio, so it feels like if I sneeze I could dart across four lanes of traffic. Even removing one hand to shift is enough to make the car wiggle within the lane. Is that normal for an STi? Or a big red flag?
Seeing alignment, alignment, a bunch of bushings, alignment kinda sounds like the PO was chasing the same thing. Isn't it kinda odd to change control arm bushings and not do an alignment right after though?
If the top hats are shot how is the rest of the suspension? Also I'm just throwing out ideas but maybe take a peek at the CVs and driveshaft for a missing weight or debris?
__________________ 1991 Toyota Celica GTFour RC // 2007 Toyota Rav4 V6 // 2000 Jeep Grand Cherokee
1992 Toyota Celica GT-S ["sold"] \\ 2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee CRD [sold] \\ 2000 Jeep Cherokee [sold] \\ 1997 Honda Prelude [sold] \\ 1992 Jeep YJ [sold/crashed] \\ 1987 Mazda RX-7 [sold] \\ 1987 Toyota Celica GT-S [crushed]
Quote:
Originally Posted by maksimizer
half those dudes are hotter than ,my GF.
Quote:
Originally Posted by RevYouUp
reading this thread is like waiting for goku to charge up a spirit bomb in dragon ball z
Quote:
Originally Posted by Good_KarMa
OH thank god. I thought u had sex with my wife. :cry:
It's possible the tire balancer was out of calibration. Something most shops overlook.
Where is the vibration felt? Do you feel the vibration in the steering wheel? Seat?
The new tires are likely not bad, maybe a bent wheel. You could spin up the wheels and make sure they are all straight. You could have the wheel tire combo "roadforce" wheel balanced.
Or could be cv shafts, or driveshaft, maybe a driveshaft support bearing. Could be in the rear diff too, front diff is even possible. Check driveline for damage or missing weights, and check the diff and trans fluids.
I suspect his balance is correct. He is the tire balancer. lol.
I hate weird handling issues. When I replaced my balljoints in my E36, steering tightened up big time. It could be a combo of things, your STi is fairly high mileage, no?
- alignment was done so frequently because he put 30+k km a year on the car and it was part of the service intervals. Fully dealer serviced and he just did what they said
- I feel it’s safe to say it did have an alignment with the LCA’s
- from my previous inspection all the bushings/components passed visual checks. Only bushing that needs replacing is one of the rear diff inserts
- vibration is felt through the steering wheel only. Granted I feel it may be exaggerated with the incredibly light steering
- doubt the wheels are bent as they’re brand new
- yes it’s high mileage, almost 280k now. I’d need someone who’s familiar with the GR chassis to take it for a hwy spin.
- original shocks and springs. I can see the front tophats have cracks in the rubber. I won’t do the alignment until those get replaced
For those interested here’s my abridged list I keep on my phone in the spoilers
01/19/2021 - trunk latch actuator, power steering pump o ring replaced, leaking when hot $389.12
Total: $23,517.46
I purchased 6/27/21
- space saved for things I forgot to log
01/22/2022 - new polyurethane/billet motor mounts, transmission mount, front/rear shifter bushings, short shift arm, tubular front bumper
02/17/22 - new VVT solenoids, exhaust header gaskets
02/18/22 - new wheels and tires installed, new lug nuts
** edit 2**
I have no idea if this is normal. My STi has incredibly light steering. Single finger all the time and I don’t like it. It’s also extremely responsive steering with a quick rack ratio, so it feels like if I sneeze I could dart across four lanes of traffic. Even removing one hand to shift is enough to make the car wiggle within the lane. Is that normal for an STi? Or a big red flag?
Low negative front caster.
Back to the vibration, I'd start with flipping tires front to back and see if it changes, even in the slightest. After that I'd try another set of front cv shafts. Tie rods, ball joints, everything else is okay up front? What brand tires?
I have to agree with @hud 91 gt...
Since you can feel it in the steering wheel, I would lean towards the front ball joints and/or inner/outer tie rods.
If cats always land on their feet, and toast always lands butter side down, what would happen if you strapped burnt toast to the back of a cat and dropped it?
I have a 2021 Hyundai Palisade, and got winter tires+wheels+TPMS installed last November. When I drove off the lot, I noticed the tire pressures were reading 39 PSI at all 4 corners, so I checked with a gauge, and they were all at 36 PSI (recommended is 35).
So I figured it was just a 'reading error', and then checked again a week later, and found the same thing - I then forgot about it.
Yesterday I found a nail in a tire so while booking the appointment to get it fixed (same place I bought the setup), I asked about the TPMS, and they want $120 to 're-program'.
My understanding from Google is with newer Hyundai/Kias, there's no "programming" for the actual car. ie. the car will find each sensor and read/display them.
That said, is there a method of re-calibrating the sensors themselves? Reading 3~4 PSI over isn't a big deal, but it also does mean the sensor will trip later when the actual pressure is lower than the trigger point.
I have a 2021 Hyundai Palisade, and got winter tires+wheels+TPMS installed last November. When I drove off the lot, I noticed the tire pressures were reading 39 PSI at all 4 corners, so I checked with a gauge, and they were all at 36 PSI (recommended is 35).
So I figured it was just a 'reading error', and then checked again a week later, and found the same thing - I then forgot about it.
Yesterday I found a nail in a tire so while booking the appointment to get it fixed (same place I bought the setup), I asked about the TPMS, and they want $120 to 're-program'.
My understanding from Google is with newer Hyundai/Kias, there's no "programming" for the actual car. ie. the car will find each sensor and read/display them.
That said, is there a method of re-calibrating the sensors themselves? Reading 3~4 PSI over isn't a big deal, but it also does mean the sensor will trip later when the actual pressure is lower than the trigger point.
Any thoughts?
I work with Nissans but in general with all current models with direct TPMS, regardless of auto-learn or manual-learn, you should not need to re-program due to a low air code. Sometimes a hard code “flat tire” code will set if it really got that low and you need to use a scanner to clear but in general the light will clear once you have the correct pressure and drive around, or have a tool to activate the sensor.
Regarding sensor calibration, do you know if they used OEM sensors? I haven’t seen a sensor which you could calibrate... but what i’ve seen instead a BCM/TPMS setting to set which pressure to turn the light on. Checked the accuracy of your gauge with another, maybe?
I work with Nissans but in general with all current models with direct TPMS, regardless of auto-learn or manual-learn, you should not need to re-program due to a low air code. Sometimes a hard code “flat tire” code will set if it really got that low and you need to use a scanner to clear but in general the light will clear once you have the correct pressure and drive around, or have a tool to activate the sensor.
Regarding sensor calibration, do you know if they used OEM sensors? I haven’t seen a sensor which you could calibrate... but what i’ve seen instead a BCM/TPMS setting to set which pressure to turn the light on. Checked the accuracy of your gauge with another, maybe?
This was the reason. I am a stupid idiot.
But no, I don't think they used OEM. But they did use one that works, I know because I was quoted a $ for a set of monitors, but after they installed it they called (and showed me) that it was incompatible and I had to pay few more per sensor to get a different model.
You are currently viewing our boards as a guest which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our free community you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is fast, simple and absolutely free so please, join our community today!
The banners on the left side and below do not show for registered users!
