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Imho, do what fits your needs. If you want a high revving high power engine, then either will fit the bill. But remember what kind of supplementary drivetrain and suspension parts you'll need. You're going to be spending a ton of money on all the other bits so the mAdD PoWaz doesn't twist your ancient chassis putting you into the closest ditch the first time you stomp it.
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Originally Posted by multicartual
convert it to turbo and run MegaSquirt on it
I want to convert you into my turb-ho and megasquirt on your face.
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Originally Posted by multicartual
What I've learned with engine swaps is that the little things are what are costly, leaky headers, getting the accessory fittings just right, positioning of the radiator, fans, the wiring.
agreed.
I've spent a few weekends trying to figure out the best way to reroute the throttle cable in what should have been an easy swap. It truly is the little things that you don't think about that set you back.
I had a stroked 3.1L L28 with triple Mikunis and I'd still prefer it over any of your choices.
Seeing your other threads, it seems like you don't even have a car yet, let alone driven the L28.
My first car was a Acura RSX, (which I've sold through this forum recently), but I've seen several Datsuns come and go through my relatives already. My family has a long history working with Z cars and left a couple for me to take over.
Finally decided to sell my RSX and take up a 280z project like my dad wanted (y)
I'll admit, I tripped balls when I saw it for the first time. The work the guy put into it really garners a lot of respect. Although the rednecks really don't get it.
The truth is, you're not going to keep everyone happy all the time. While you love an RB or 2JZ, another guy thinks a built NA motor is best. I prefer the thought of a KA or SR swap. The LSx folks make a great argument for their aluminum mill. And there's always one of those rotary queers in every crowd talking about apex seals and high revs.....
First off, what do you want from the car, big power, or just a bit of an upgrade? If you're adding power you're gonna wanna upgrade the brakes and suspension as well, then you have to think about the strength of the chassis and weight balance.
As far as the swap itself, to me it's only "sacrilegious" if the motor you're replacing is already a high performance capable motor (ie replacing an RB26 with a 2JZ) since you're adding a bunch of extra work and headache for little to no gain.
__________________ 1991 Toyota Celica GTFour RC // 2007 Toyota Rav4 V6 // 2000 Jeep Grand Cherokee
1992 Toyota Celica GT-S ["sold"] \\ 2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee CRD [sold] \\ 2000 Jeep Cherokee [sold] \\ 1997 Honda Prelude [sold] \\ 1992 Jeep YJ [sold/crashed] \\ 1987 Mazda RX-7 [sold] \\ 1987 Toyota Celica GT-S [crushed]
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Originally Posted by maksimizer
half those dudes are hotter than ,my GF.
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Originally Posted by RevYouUp
reading this thread is like waiting for goku to charge up a spirit bomb in dragon ball z
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Originally Posted by Good_KarMa
OH thank god. I thought u had sex with my wife. :cry:
Start with something simple, maybe even start with an N/A 2JZ, get everything running right FIRST.
Then add a standalone... learn to tune your N/A motor and learn to drive the car, balance the chassis.
Then, after maybe a year of that, THEN step up your game and perhaps add a power adder.
Shit in my E36 chassis even under stock 5.0 power I'm finding that it overpowered the stock rear diff. Also, the 3.91 gears and 225 rear tires are basically a burnout machine in 1st gear. I need to run drag radials on the rear to get any sort of 1st gear traction*... on a stock 184 rwhp engine!
Engine swaps are a huge project!
*Did research last night, I need some ksport drag coilovers... $1,2xx USD!
Last edited by multicartual; 10-18-2014 at 01:03 PM.
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