Pmd for another shop that might have space.



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read up top breh TSS can do it for u!

I messaged them on facebook, thanks! I didn't see the post somehow

I thought about going back, but other than feeling a bit ripped off, I don't really care enough... as in I'm not paranoid about the rubber aging.

I took a look at the receipt and realized that two of the tires are 2014, and the other two are 2017... Better than I expected :badpokerface:
The two tires that have it's DOT shown both show 2014. But I guess the two tires that are mounted on the other side with the DOT shown on the inside are 2017, which I couldn't see yesterday with the tires already installed on the car.

Whatever.. at this point, it's not really worth the hassle. I'll just move on.

if i were to get winter tires from shop ''x'', i would have to wait for time to open up or shops will do them when they receive the tires?

If it's not in stock then you gotta wait till they arrive. And then when they do, they arrange an appointment for you, which could be a couple of days or a week later. Eg, Costco and cantire.

^^ if you have a separate set of rims that you want the snow tires on, ask the shop if you can just do a “carry in/out”. Instead of being given an appointment 3 weeks away, they often will take the wheels and install the tires in between cars or at the end of the day, whenever there’s a gap. Then just pick em up and install in the driveway (which if you can’t do, I’m sure RS people who live nearby would be willing to help)

Where do you guys get lug nuts for the steelies? Costco has them for the cheapest so far, but they have several option and doesn't explain which one to get.

Should I also get open end or close end ones?

Lastly, do you guys put anything on the bolt before putting the tires back on? I've done swaps for a couple of season already, but I never do anything when I swap my tires.

Some people say put anti seize on it, others say don't. I'm in the don't group.



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No anti-seize on the threads as you don't want them to back off.

Yes anti-seize on areas where hub contacts rim to prevent corrosion from fusing the two together. Just had this happen to the old man's car, what a PITA.

^ use white grease. It will harden a little to hold them on and keep water out to prevent rusting, but it will also enable them to also break loose easier. The grease breaks down after a few years so reapply and carry on.

Even then you don’t want anything in between the hub and the back of the rim, including anti seize. Anything in between can slowly move and work it’s way out leaving a gap between, his is called joint settling. To prevent the wheel assembly sticking to the hubs (which happens all the time by the way, it’s not a big deal) wire brush and spray with brake clean every time the wheel is removed. Keeps dirt and corrosion from building up

If they're for your Audi, it will be lug bolts, rather...
VW/Audi bolt size is M14x1.5, like the aforementioned Costo spec from before. Depending on the bolt seat on your new steelies, it may have been designed to be used with the round bolt seat on the OEM bolts so you could just reuse the regular bolts. However, with what i've seen, most aftermarket steelies, including OEM replicas, will use a cone/acorn seat.

If it's for a Toyota (referring to your handle) you can usually use any stock nuts with aftermarket steelies because they are all cone seated. The nuts for Toyota alloy rims can work because they are designed to be able to be used with a stock steel spare tire, but that is supposed to be temporary and i would recommend proper nuts. M12x1.5

Personally i would use closed ended nuts because the salt and corrosion will really make you have a hard time taking off of open-ended nuts next spring, but if you use light lubricant like previously stated it shouldn't be much of a big deal

Some people have a hard-on for Anti-seize, but it doesn't compress and it doesn't lubricate. Only prevents corrosion. Wheel hub = yes, threads = probably not

LOL had that happened to my brand new bmw and a tire shop guy taught me this trick.

Take all lug nuts off except for one and give the wheel a kick when u take off the wheels. Assuming you didnt kick the car off the stand, loose last nug and you are good to go.

The other neat trick is to loosen all the bolts, raise the car on the jack, and lower the car back down on the ground - use gravity to break the wheel loose.

Daily drive all winter on roads liberally doused with mag chloride and have fun getting them seized up lug nuts off after the winter season. And good luck if you need to change a flat on the road and all you have is the crappy tools that come with the car. The bolts on my wife's SUV weren't anti-seized, I had to heat them up with a blowtorch to break them loose.

I put a little anti-seize on the threads of the bolts not on the face of the bolt. The reading I've done suggests that the rotating friction of the mating surfaces (bolt face/rim) is what gives you your torque spec. My experience after years of doing this is that when I go to re-torque my wheels 100 km after an install the bolts have not backed out at all. When I change from winters to summers (and vice-versa) the wheel bolts are still tight.

YMMV

Screw it lol, I'm just going to head to Lordco or CT and ask them directly. I looked up Costco's website, first they only sell sets of 16, which doesn't make sense(?), and second, I looked up the model number of the sets available, takes me to the same seller for the steelies, but I'm more confused. lol

But thanks though.

Applying anti-seize on threads will cause you to over torque the nuts. I would not recommend doing that, it has nothing to do with them backing out.
I'm an automotive tech btw.

You do know some cars are 4 bolt right? 4x4=16

But yeah not all the Costco warehouses have lug nuts/studs in store. Best to just go to lordco

How long were they on there and how were they torqued? I've never had a problem swapping wheels on my vehicles or any of my family that I've done swaps for and I've never used anti-seize. Also go to Princess Auto and buy a couple extra breaker bars and single sockets and put them in your vehicles, those stock wrenches are junk no matter what you've done to the nuts. In a pinch it's also handy for banging on the fuel tank if the pump ever dies.

Helped my parents order some tires from discount tire direct and getting them installed at Costco Bellingham. Called today to book for this weekend with a lot of slots to choose from. Not sure why the wait times are so much crazier at local Costco's and CTs

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^because tax
unless you drive down with balds and replacing them there

and why didnt you just installed them at discount tire?

Don’t forget your floor jack handle

Discount tire direct eBay had the $100 off $400 promo. But they won't ship to discount tire. So there's no incentive to install there.

I'm not even talking about Canadians going down. Just looking at Canadians at our local shops vs Americans at local Washington shops. Why is it that our shops are flooded with 3-4 week wait times while they've got empty slots even on the weekend. Is the average American just more ready for winter with separate winter sets at home?

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