If your patient you can remove it with minimal damage to the stud and the wheel

How long is your tire iron?.. extend it longer with a steel pipe then try again. Continuous force (vs jumping) works much better and reduces risk of breakage. I keep a 10 foot long pipe for scenarios like this.

Also are you using a deep socket? More surface area helps.. also the lower the temperature the more brittle the metal will be.

The problem with a huge breaker bar or pipe is you end up with uneven force on the nut, it almost prys on the nut. an imact puts force evenly around the nut. and the hammer function of the impact is very effective at snapping the moment of friction free

I wouldn't mind giving it a try to get the broken lugnuts off. Probably be best to have a closer look at them before saying that I can do it. How much of the old nut is left on the stud? Are they broken off flush with the studs?

PM me and we can arrange a meeting.

As mentioned before, why the hell were you standing and jumping on it to loosen it? Also, once you broke one of the lugs, why the hell did you continue to do it to the rest of the wheels? You should have stopped right away and used another technique or taken it to a shop where they have the proper power tools..

Seized and or tight fasteners are best taken off by hand. Never use an impact .

alot of suggestions in here without anyone actually dealing with it before...

anyhow, i had the exact same problem last year...
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...ps7d0743ad.jpg

amongst trying all of the tricks already mentioned in here i also tried those bolt extractors, NOTHING WORKED.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...ps21efddd9.jpg

your only option is gonna be to drill out the wheel studs and replace them.

if you're DIY, you're gonna need a powerful drill, start with a small bit to make a guide then go at er' with the next size bit, so and and so fourth until you have it drilled out.

if you cant DIY, contact independent speed shop in langley, they managed to take care of it without damaging my iforged wheels.

also, for the future, dont buy those cheap spline lugs, as you and I have both learned the hard way, theyre cheap for a reason.
go with some good blox racing lugs or something, theyre expensive but itll end up being cheaper than paying a mechanic to drill out your studs again.
and finally, ALWAYS torque your lug nuts by hand.

Update?

Hey, just wondering...did these not fit in the hole because it's too wide or they did not grab enough?

The first thing I'd go for would be using a small dremel bit on an extension to cut away at the remaining bit of lug on opposing sides until it snaps apart. Alternatively I'd hit the end of the stud dead on with an air hammer (or the biggest hammer you can find and a punch) until either the remaining bit of lug breaks or the stud breaks.

Either way, once you get it apart I'd replace all 20 studs as I wouldn't trust ones that have been subjected to being so severely overtightened.

That would be too big for the lughole.

that's the tool how they take off thousands of oem, aftermarket lugs (with no keys) at my friend's rebuild/wreck shop in Surrey.
you really have to use the blue-point version, as it has all different sizes with slim profile. the main thing is to hammer it on heavy with sledge hammer.

alternatively, just cut the whole thing off with oxy acetylene torch or go at it with air chisel.

don't bother drilling, tensile strength on the studs are rated to 10, it will wear out any drill bit in your tool box :whistle:

I agree, the blue-point, slim extractor would probably fit but the one in the pic is definitely too big (and shallow) for the lugholes in the OP's wheels. Most diy-ers won't spend the money for quality tools, especially if they're one time use.

OP wanted to save the wheels, so oxy is out of the question. Although, since he's getting a shop to do it, the cost of labour could severely cut into the value of the wheels if they're trying not to damage them.

As I mentioned before, based on these wheels, I'd go straight carbide burr and grind 2 sides of the lugnut if a proper extractor doesn't work. If that failed, fuck it, cut the spokes off and chop the stud from the side.

^ getting to the back of the rear lugs without removing the rotor would be near impossible. The lugs are strong but the threads aren't so I think hitting the lug dead center with an air hammer/sledge and punch should be enough to strip the threads and pop it apart.

it fit perfectly fine, i tried hitting it when an impact gun, just didnt grab.

once again, i dont know how many people are actually speaking from first hand experience, but the only way i was able to tackle this was by drilling the stud out.
dont mean to sound like a dick but unless one has actually done this first hand stop posting mechanical advice before someone tries and and damages their vehicle.

Based on first hand experience your way sounds way more time consuming and costly in the end once your factor in re/re 3 knuckles to replace drilled out studs.

Die grinder and patience is the only way with causing the least consequential damage to any other components. As with all things in life , results may vary depending on the level of your competency.

Sawzall beats everything.
http://imgur.com/9ZJmH.jpg