You are currently viewing our boards as a guest which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our free community you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is fast, simple and absolutely free so please, join our community today!
The banners on the left side and below do not show for registered users!
If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact contact us.
But on a serious note, the sound makes me happy, and the driving experience makes me happy. And that's all us enthusiasts are after right? In today's day and age, its definitely dog slow, as my mom's RDX can most definitely spank it in a straight line and not cruise at 4000 rpm on the highway, but where's the fun in that!
These are two of my favourite sound clips on youtube, and I go back to listen every once in a while.
You can hear the driver chuckle a bit after the first pull in the second clip, and that's honestly my reaction most times the VTEC kicks in yo.
Edit: And oh yea, after an upshift, the engine is still revving higher than my miata at redline, while basically being a shopping cart engine while doing grocery and home depot runs.
Maybe I missed it, but what did they actually change vs the GSR? Were the changes bolt on, or are we talking internal structure changes?
Honda did do some chassis reinforcements in different areas, and subframe reinforcements. There is a diagram showing those changes somewhere on the web. Its practically a different car. Everything that can be changed was changed. Anything that was not needed was taken out to save weight to make it a track weapon. They spent so much time on R&D that they loss money on every ITR that was sold. But they did deliver on a car that is truly driver oriented. I think that is the connection ppl have when driving the car. When you drive the car, the car gives you direct feedback, and you decide what to do, not a computer.
SumAznGuy is the reason I have an ITR. He found my first 2001 on a random FB board even though the owner lived literally one block from me.
I paid 14k back in 2016. 01-1233 cdm 162kms, rusty quarters and no service records. Ok one receipt for a new battery from the week before. I sold it for $23,500 in 2019. Head has been rebuilt by Sheepyrace. DDE still owns it.
This week I made a deal on a 1998 CDM 166kms. Cost me 28k this time! For an Integra. Double what it cost me last time. Cleaner car but no 2001 only red seats front and back.
I went from 993 C4S to ITR. I am letting the faster modern and comfortable 1M go back to ITR. Why?
Pure driving bliss. The engagement, the feedback and the noises. It’s a race car for the street. I like to call it a poor mans GT3.
Drive a slow car fast. You can push the ITR to it’s limits and feel when you are reaching the limit and hold it there. Despite being under powered they are a blast at autox and lapping days.
Quirks and features. Numbered badges, red accents, and ITR only parts. Ownership is quite fun as there are so many differences and special features to be discovered. Modifications are readily available.
Low cost of ownership. They are cheap to fuel, insure, maintain, track etc. They are easy to work on because it’s a Bseries Honda. You won’t lose much if you decide to sell.
There are plenty of cars out there for less such as 350Z, BRZ, Miata that will also be fun weekend warriors. Those are all wise choices. The Honda fanboi like me will pay a premium for an ITR. I put my money where my mouth is.
__________________ Victoria Car Assessments - Condition assessments (test drive, photos, deficiencies and summary). RS member references available. IG @touringteg
1998 Acura Integra Type R #0635
2017 Honda Civic Type R #01818
Last edited by TouringTeg; 05-09-2020 at 07:59 AM.
Ok guys, I know I'm going to get a biased answer in here. But since that 18K ITR was on the topic for a bit and my car is most likely written off,
Should I buy the 18K ITR (seems to be just as shady) or an 18K E46 M3 (Alberta title, rusty, rebuilt, 144K km, reinforced subframe, vanos and rod bearings are done)
I know car buying is very subjective, so here's what I had done to my now dead E46 330CI. I had done all preventative maintenance even the most minor issues. Suspension was Bilstein B8s + H&R race springs. New control arms, all new suspension bushings with the best OE (MeyleHD). 95a engine mounts and trans mounts (NVH doesn't bother me). Transmission mounted solid shifter.
My 330CI was a very good dual duty car. It was ok for track and ok for dailying. Obviously sacrifices were made but ultimately my car was dialed in for cruising back roads while still looking good for cars and coffee. I'm looking for something I can do the same with, a car that can perform at the track while still being able to show up to business meetings with LOL.
Might end up starting a new thread, but I guess I want the opinions of the ITR experts.
Sent from my ONEPLUS A5000 using Tapatalk
__________________
|| 18 FK8 | R-18692 | Rallye Red | 6 MT ||
|| SOLD 97 E36 M3 Sedan | Arctic Silver | 5MT ||
|| RIP 02 E46 330ci | Schwartz Black II | 5MT | M-Tech II | Black Cube | Shadowline | Stoff Laser/Anthrazit ||
|| RIP 02 E46 M3 | Carbon Black | 6MT ||
Ok guys, I know I'm going to get a biased answer in here. But since that 18K ITR was on the topic for a bit and my car is most likely written off,
Should I buy the 18K ITR (seems to be just as shady) or an 18K E46 M3 (Alberta title, rusty, rebuilt, 144K km, reinforced subframe, vanos and rod bearings are done)
I know car buying is very subjective, so here's what I had done to my now dead E46 330CI. I had done all preventative maintenance even the most minor issues. Suspension was Bilstein B8s + H&R race springs. New control arms, all new suspension bushings with the best OE (MeyleHD). 95a engine mounts and trans mounts (NVH doesn't bother me). Transmission mounted solid shifter.
My 330CI was a very good dual duty car. It was ok for track and ok for dailying. Obviously sacrifices were made but ultimately my car was dialed in for cruising back roads while still looking good for cars and coffee. I'm looking for something I can do the same with, a car that can perform at the track while still being able to show up to business meetings with LOL.
Might end up starting a new thread, but I guess I want the opinions of the ITR experts.
Sent from my ONEPLUS A5000 using Tapatalk
I owned both a E46 m3 and a ITR at same time. I still have my ITR and sold the E46.
IMO they are very different car. Is it your "1 car solution?" Eg is this going to be your DD and weekend and Road trip car?
ITR can do daily duties without issues but i didnt enjoy driving it as a DD. Too much NVH and 3500rpm on the highway is tiring. The ITR comes alive on track and thats where it shines.
The E46 is a much more balanced all arounder that does everything quite well (except reliability maybe?)
Most owners don’t daily their ITR but there are still a few in Vancouver like the 396km one. They are garage kept weekend toys.
I think it’s worth 15k since you can part the red seats for $3500 and get a set of Recaro seats and JDM rear for $1200 or so. It’s hard to get excited about it as a keeper. I was close to making a move on it and turn it into a track car.
That 30k JDM front CDM ITR is just too much and they are not flexible. 9 months or so at $30k. It loses some collectibility although JDM front looks better and it has quality upgrades. A lot of people looking don’t want the price to start with a 3 otherwise they will get an FK8 CTR instead. I couldn’t bring myself to spend $30k on an ITR.
__________________ Victoria Car Assessments - Condition assessments (test drive, photos, deficiencies and summary). RS member references available. IG @touringteg
1998 Acura Integra Type R #0635
2017 Honda Civic Type R #01818
missed the boat on the ITR because didn't have garage at the time
15k okay but over 20k it's hard to justify
looked into importing one but even most of that has dried up (just think of every momo or recaro you find meant one died) so went with something slightly more modern, much more bespoke and comparably stiff/raw: the 2L S2000 despite hating ragtops so hardtop eventually coming haha
but i'd be miserable dailying it though because it begs you to keep it over 5k
Ok guys, I know I'm going to get a biased answer in here. But since that 18K ITR was on the topic for a bit and my car is most likely written off,
Should I buy the 18K ITR (seems to be just as shady) or an 18K E46 M3 (Alberta title, rusty, rebuilt, 144K km, reinforced subframe, vanos and rod bearings are done)
I know car buying is very subjective, so here's what I had done to my now dead E46 330CI. I had done all preventative maintenance even the most minor issues. Suspension was Bilstein B8s + H&R race springs. New control arms, all new suspension bushings with the best OE (MeyleHD). 95a engine mounts and trans mounts (NVH doesn't bother me). Transmission mounted solid shifter.
My 330CI was a very good dual duty car. It was ok for track and ok for dailying. Obviously sacrifices were made but ultimately my car was dialed in for cruising back roads while still looking good for cars and coffee. I'm looking for something I can do the same with, a car that can perform at the track while still being able to show up to business meetings with LOL.
Might end up starting a new thread, but I guess I want the opinions of the ITR experts.
Sent from my ONEPLUS A5000 using Tapatalk
E46 are great cars, but once it shoots the poop its pretty much done.
With the ITR you wont really miss a beat. You don't have to be worried about breaking something on a Honda at a track day. Parts are everywhere. Engine swaps are dime a dozen. You can stick with any B series or if you got cash to burn and feel adventurous move into the K series engines.
E46 are great cars, but once it shoots the poop its pretty much done.
With the ITR you wont really miss a beat. You don't have to be worried about breaking something on a Honda at a track day. Parts are everywhere. Engine swaps are dime a dozen. You can stick with any B series or if you got cash to burn and feel adventurous move into the K series engines.
Completely agree with that. And ITR really is perfect for the track where it feels most at home. With the needs he listed though, I don't feel it's the perfect car for him though.
Quote:
Originally Posted by BIC_BAWS
Ok guys, I know I'm going to get a biased answer in here. But since that 18K ITR was on the topic for a bit and my car is most likely written off,
My 330CI was a very good dual duty car. It was ok for track and ok for dailying. Obviously sacrifices were made but ultimately my car was dialed in for cruising back roads while still looking good for cars and coffee. I'm looking for something I can do the same with, a car that can perform at the track while still being able to show up to business meetings with LOL.
For the M3, a very basic reinforcement with plates welded is definitely going to crack (again) - especially if you are planning on tracking the car. 90% of the time you won't be able to see the cracks until you drop the whole rear. If you were to go with the M3 route, you'll definitely need to pony up more $$ to catch up on all of the past due work. 25k examples will get you one in good physical condition and maybe 6spd - but the maintenance department will still be lacking. I don't think I've seen a properly sorted out E46 M3 for sale locally - they all need a lot of love to get it to the point where you are comfortable tracking it.
If you had a DD and this is your second car, I would tell you to get an ITR right away - but if you want a single car to both go to the track AND look professional, I'm not sure the ITR would be the one. Non-car people will not look at the ITR and think anything of it like enthusiasts. It comes down to how much you care about how your car may portray yourself to your client.
If you wanted to stay with BMW I would recommend an E82 or E90 330i. Of course, you win some and lose some. With this route you lose the raw feeling of the ITR chassis but still would be a good compromise at the track. Those two have come down so much in price that you can get it for way less than 18k You can then use the rest of the money to mod and prep for the track. On top of that, they will still look professional enough to meet clients in.
p.s. you probably should start a new thread lol
__________________ '00 Honda Accord V6 [sold]
'95 BMW 325i Cabriolet [RIP]
'03 VW Jetta 1.8T [RIP]
'06 BMW 330i [RIP] '02 BMW M3 '99 Honda Civic SIR [sold] '19 Civic Type R[sold] '22 MINI Cooper SE My Photojournal: simplexcars
Last edited by Simplex123; 05-10-2020 at 10:31 AM.
importing a rhd jdm itr under 200kms still goes for $20,000 plus cad! low mileage db8 itr or dc2 itr reach up to 28k shipped,
might as well get jdm dc2 type RX instead and pay more
96 spec with that mileage were like 8-12k landed/oop inspected + plated
ITRx rice like oem aluminum pedals should've been standard like the S2000
but i dont need tint or a 6-disc deck haha
the thing with import is you better make sure it's long term, because you'll get pennies on the dollar for resale...buyers dont seem to care it's 100-120 lbs lighter with better gearing etc. if they have to shift with left hand and signal with the right
Last edited by twitchyzero; 05-10-2020 at 09:22 PM.
Maybe I missed it, but what did they actually change vs the GSR? Were the changes bolt on, or are we talking internal structure changes?
a fine tuned, factory effort
just to name a few -
extra welds
thicker quarter panels
extra bracing
stiffer rubber on bushings, engine mounts
lighter internals, higher compression, hand ported engine heads, hand torqued bottom end
short runner intake manifold, instead of two stage on the GSR
unique header
lighter glass on j spec models
less sound deadening
bigger brakes compared to GSR, bigger bolt pattern
more aggressive cam profiles
shorter gearing, factory LSD
super thick anti roll bars from factory
aero that generates downforce
lightweight ac on ac equipped cars
off the top of my head, the J spec cars were even corner balanced to a certain extent from the factory
its wild, honda spent so much time fine tuning little things on the car.
such an interesting car. closest thing nowadays are GT3's and maybe the subaru BRZ Ts.
Regarding JDM imports, I bid on 4 over the last 3 months through Bpro.
You want 98 for 5 lug and bigger brakes. Every half decent one was at least $20k CAD landed. Even 96 is not cheap anymore because Americans are buying them up since they are close to 25 years old. They all had some kind of deal breaker for me like a cage or noticeable accident damage in the engine bay. As well you are always taking a big risk since you buy based on crappy pictures.
In the end I didn’t want want to pay $20k and have RHD. The days of the cheap ITR are over.
__________________ Victoria Car Assessments - Condition assessments (test drive, photos, deficiencies and summary). RS member references available. IG @touringteg
1998 Acura Integra Type R #0635
2017 Honda Civic Type R #01818
Last edited by TouringTeg; 05-11-2020 at 04:19 PM.
yep 95 are already eligible for USA and exporters have been storing 96
when it was cheap was worth considering...ship has sailed and wondering if Ro/Ro costs will skyrocket post-COVID now that barely any vessels leaving the yokohama port
extra welds
thicker quarter panels
extra bracing
stiffer rubber on bushings, engine mounts
lighter internals, higher compression, hand ported engine heads, hand torqued bottom end
short runner intake manifold, instead of two stage on the GSR
unique header
lighter glass on j spec models
less sound deadening
bigger brakes compared to GSR, bigger bolt pattern
more aggressive cam profiles
shorter gearing, factory LSD
super thick anti roll bars from factory
aero that generates downforce
lightweight ac on ac equipped cars
off the top of my head, the J spec cars were even corner balanced to a certain extent from the factory
its wild, honda spent so much time fine tuning little things on the car.
such an interesting car. closest thing nowadays are GT3's and maybe the subaru BRZ Ts.
Sounds similar to what was done to a lot of the homologation editions of cars used in the WRC. Was it in a racing series that required an edition like that or was Honda doing it as a technical exercise?
__________________ 1991 Toyota Celica GTFour RC // 2007 Toyota Rav4 V6 // 2000 Jeep Grand Cherokee
1992 Toyota Celica GT-S ["sold"] \\ 2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee CRD [sold] \\ 2000 Jeep Cherokee [sold] \\ 1997 Honda Prelude [sold] \\ 1992 Jeep YJ [sold/crashed] \\ 1987 Mazda RX-7 [sold] \\ 1987 Toyota Celica GT-S [crushed]
Quote:
Originally Posted by maksimizer
half those dudes are hotter than ,my GF.
Quote:
Originally Posted by RevYouUp
reading this thread is like waiting for goku to charge up a spirit bomb in dragon ball z
Quote:
Originally Posted by Good_KarMa
OH thank god. I thought u had sex with my wife. :cry:
Sounds similar to what was done to a lot of the homologation editions of cars used in the WRC. Was it in a racing series that required an edition like that or was Honda doing it as a technical exercise?
more like technical exercise.
the cars did very well on the Japanese "N1" races, the races were cars were basically stock + bolt on cage and sorts.
I think the most dominant form of the DC2 R was when it competed in the Speedvision touring series. they dominated from 97-02'
The realtime racing Acura integra type R's were dominant and apparently were modified minimally - they were using bone stock gear boxes!!
more or less for the nsx type r tech to trickle down for the common man
loss leader to build an image/a following and it worked pretty well 140 page thread 25 years later with buyers shelling out msrp or more
realtime and mugen is the reason i'm going with redline 10w30 for the next oil change huehue
__________________ Victoria Car Assessments - Condition assessments (test drive, photos, deficiencies and summary). RS member references available. IG @touringteg
1998 Acura Integra Type R #0635
2017 Honda Civic Type R #01818
You are currently viewing our boards as a guest which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our free community you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is fast, simple and absolutely free so please, join our community today!
The banners on the left side and below do not show for registered users!
