Stuck spark plugs
 

Any tips on dealing with this? Whoever changed them last didn't have the foresight to use a bit of anti-seize. Already tried spraying some WD40/PB Blaster to no avail. Currently using a 3/8" drive spark plug socket as it's all I have. Wondering if I'll do more harm than good by grabbing a 1/2" socket from somewhere then I can have at it with a breaker bar.

Have you tried undoing them while the engine is warm? If not, do it. If your doing it warm, try it cold. Same as with any stubborn bolts the difference in metals expand at different rates, and it may just give that little extra you need to break it free.

I'm assuming you have an aluminum head, a 3/8" socket ratchet drive probably has enough force to strip aluminum, but if you feel you need the 1/2", go for it.

I feel like if you use a 1/2", you're gonna have a real bad time. I would recommend the above advice, and if you cant loosen it still, try tightening it ever so slightly and then loosening off

Motor won't start. Warming it up isn't an option unfortunately.

What kind of car are you working on?

Miata. Tried tightening then loosening. No change. He-Man must've last for the plugs. So frustrating!

Not sure if you have the tools, but a small cordless 3/8 impact on its lowest setting. It will not likely take it off at the lowest power but the impact of the tool will shock the threads and break them free. Its rather common for 2 dissimilar metals to almost bond together, a simple blow will often loosen the threads and allow you to remove it rather easy.

Try a manual hand-held impact?

http://toolmonger.com/wp-content/upl...d-impact_s.jpg

Use the PB blaster again, and let it soak for a bit. Get a socket extension, position it carefully over the exposed end of the spark plug (where the wire connects to) and tap it gently with a hammer or mallet. Couple of LIGHT taps should shock the threads and allow the PB blaster to penetrate. Or if there's room, use a butane/propane torch to heat up the area surrounding the spark plug to get it warm. With spark plugs, I find unless anti-seize is used, the engine must be warm to remove them easily.

Try to get access to Kano Aerokroil Penetrating Oil to free up the plug. Apparently it works wonders on getting metal freed up. I was looking to order some from Amazon, for just-in-case scenarios.

GL

Got 2 of the plugs off. I was previously using a socket with a worn out rubber insert that wasn't really grasping onto the top of the plug that seemed like it was starting to round off where the socket catches onto. I didn't have as much luck with the other two and really feel like a new socket with a nice rubber insert should do the trick. Part of me thinks I'm crazy though since I thought the rubber was just to prevent the porcelain from cracking. It definitely seemed easier with the "good' socket though. Driving me insane dealing with the most basic shit. What I really wanted to do was just do a compression test before sending it to the shop for them to deal with. Having a real good time with this...

Don't worry about breaking the porcelain.

If the plug is starting to round off on you, try tapping a slightly smaller sized socket over it.

The rubber insert is just to pull the plug out once its loose - it doesn't effect loosening it from the head. You can use any deep socket.

Run a portable torch down the plug hole to warm it up.

Also applies to spark plugs :troll:

http://s.quickmeme.com/img/7d/7d509f...cbc80c8f89.jpg

Ran into this problem before with my dad's car. Used a 1/2" breaker bar to crack it loose :fuckthatshit:

At some point you're just going to have to go for it and accept that the plug might come out with pieces of aluminum fused to it.

If you need adapters, breaker bars, sockets, whatever, send me a pm.

I would be of the thinking that if i'm using a breaker bar to take off a spark plug... Then it's probably going to break haha.

The rubber piece is just there to hold on to the plug when raising and lowering it in the hole. It may prevent your socket from fully seating around the threads though sometimes. I have used a regular deep socket to get it loose then put the one with the rubber insert to remove it from hole.

Berz out.

I think this good advice . If you have the room and tools try carefully impacting forward then reverse.

so any carnage pics yet?

Probably already burnt the car with gasoline

http://oi67.tinypic.com/fenqya.jpg

In other news, I'm now parting out my car. Don't have the budget to properly repair the engine and am not the type of person to bandaid fix something and quickly pass it onto someone else to deal with. At least I'll break even once all the parts are sold!

Looks like the socket wasn't seated all the way down.

What's wrong with the motor?