I dunno, that could be handy if you realize halfway through that you're unleashing some unholy abomination.

the reason why I had to remove the wall is because some stupid reason the fan is powered by the light in the kitchen. I have a feeling its by the toilet instead by the light switch because they forgot about the fan and it was easy to pull the power from the kitchen light. I'm happy it was figured out and won't cost me extra which is the big thing

Nitpicking here but you'll probably want to staple the loomex to the right of the kitchen window closer to the inside of the stud as the way it sits right now doesn't pass code.

that was all my electricians work, he's of course not finished but I'm not worried at all right now.

Not sure if you've bought your flooring already but if not you might want to look at luxury vinyl plank flooring. Cheaper than hardwood, looks pretty good and if an area gets damaged you can easily pull it up and put down some other planks. I have it everywhere in my house except bathrooms and has been good so far.

love seeing all that work before i get there,lol.

I'm going to go with the same engineered hardwood along the entire first floor including the kitchen. That's not going to be done for 6 months to a year since we have maxed out on the kitchen and washroom plus we still need to replace all the windows as well.

I'm thinking about putting some of this down in my laundry room. Got any pics?

Are you laying the flooring down, underneath the cabinets and appliances, even though you're doing the rest later?

https://postimg.org/image/cuhafsc6v

Think it was under $3.50/sqf but i bought it a while ago so don't remember the exact price.

https://4corners.ca/

not sure what i'm doing wrong, link to image here https://postimg.org/image/cuhafsc6v/

we are going to leave the kick plates lose and then lay the flooring partially under the cabinets and then put the kick plates on. The gf did that on her last place and it worked perfect.

Just gonna live on sub floor for a while? lol I'm debating that myself right now

yup thats the plan and i'm even leaving the original lino down as well. I don't see the big deal about living on the subfloor for a bit since it will make things easier down the road for the pocketbook.

If you're mounting the cabinets permanently, before the floors go in, just remember to go the extra 1/2-3/4" off the subfloor, so the counter is at the right height.

already factored that in, that would totally suck if that was missed and the counters were that off.

I spoke to my cabinet guy earlier in the day and confirmed we are getting them installed for the weekend of the 14th. Can't wait for two weeks and the kitchen will be close to done. I guess I should finish ripping up the floor lol

Here you go!

https://s23.postimg.org/wcbxvq94p/IM...231_115249.jpg

Looks nice!

Serious question, would that even be noticeable?

I'd definitely notice the difference. Same as if the rise of a staircase or a toilet height is off. So many dimensions are so standardized, that our bodies just become used to them.

i've installed hundreds of kitchens. once you level the bases there's always difference in height from one end of the run to the other, especially in renos(older homes). same with stairs. its math. you have a total run and a total rise, and depending on the amount of stairs, it varies. you try to approach a standard, but it usually is not. the important thing is that its consistent, because if one is different you could go for a fall.

I've installed my fair share of cabinets as well and of course the floors are never perfect. I'm just saying if I walked up to a counter that was 37" high, I would notice.

Late mini post but just finished pulling ip the bathroom floor, the sub is rotted in the closest corner to the right of the tub so no clue how I'm going to fix that yet but I will figure it out.

That being said, the GF pulled up the entire bathroom floor... She's a fucken champ and i'm so impressed.

No work tomorrow since the electrical is being finished/inspected and then the plummer is coming in on Thursday and drywall up this weekend.

https://s28.postimg.org/z9i02uob1/floor.jpg

I ended up going with Roxul insulation, I've heard nothing but good things about it and the price difference is worth it in the long run.

https://s24.postimg.org/amkan8wxh/insulation.jpg

Thats one of my cats Walter in the picture... He's been helping lots as well.

https://s23.postimg.org/nq6k8go57/ladder.jpg

https://s23.postimg.org/3wr70hl3f/bucket.jpg

To be honest I doubt you'll notice a difference between Roxul which is a mineral wool compared to a standard Fiberglass batt. The stc ratings are pretty much equivalent based on the same R value however since you're doing such a small area you're not really paying that much more.

I'm using it more due to the sound proofing and I'm going to put it in every open wall including my inside walls. Thats the big reason why I wanted to go with it since you can hear every little thing in my place especially the washroom.

Should have maybe went with the roxul "safe and sound" then? It's their sound proofing product with the fire rating for in between floors etc.

Ended up using it on our suite and that, in combination with the sound barrier drywall (forgot which product we used) has worked great. I only boarded the ceiling in the bedroom with the sound proof drywall but it seems like it was worth the money. Can have my makita radio directly above the bedroom and you can still hear slight beats etc but cannot make out words or much sound when it's fully cranked