Pick a dual duty car for BIC_BAWS

[BIC_BAWS]

Alright. So I've been procrastinating on starting this thread. Sorry for the word vomit - I started this on a Word document and just went at it

Anyway, RS, as some of you may know, my E46 330Ci got rear ended this month. Write off limit is 70% of Actual Cash Value, body shop estimated at the very minimum, I'm at 132%. I heard from ICBC last week, and it’s official - the car is a write off. I'm alive, I'm a little sore in the neck, lower back, shoulder area, and weirdly left wrist. And yes, you can have my parts (just need stock + cash).

I have already started this topic in two other threads, but I think it needs its own thread. I will be quoting the previous posts about it here so that it does not get lost or repeated. There are two parts to this, firstly what car should I get next and secondly, how do I proceed since my car is a write off.

What car do I get next?

I know car buying is very subjective, so here's what I had done to my now dead E46 330CI. I had done all preventative maintenance even the most minor issues. Suspension was Bilstein B8s + H&R race springs, new MeyleHD control arms, and all new MeyleHD suspension bushings (I used Z4M RTAB if anyone’s curious). I had Revshift 95a poly engine mounts and trans mounts (NVH doesn't bother me) so that I could pair it to my RTD solid mounted shifter with DSSR (No cutting required CAE shifter).

Capability

My 330CI was a very good dual duty car. It was ok for track and ok for dailying. Obviously, sacrifices were made but ultimately my car was dialed in for cruising back roads while still looking good for cars and coffee. I'm looking for something I can do the same with, a car that can perform at the track while still being able to show up to business meetings with/drive my family around. Surprisingly, my 330ci has more rear leg and head room than my 2015 Civic sedan.

Another aspect that I now have to consider is my commute. As mentioned in RE thread, if I do end up doing a 80-200Km commute, this is going to suck. Originally, my plan was to use my 330CI as a strict track car and buy a beater. Obviously, that's not going to work now.

Maintenance

A common question to car buying is tolerance to maintenance. Yes, I am familiar with European “reliability” and fortunately I can turn a wrench now with this very expensive 330CI experience. Part of me doesn’t want to repeat that experience and spend the next 4 years and at least 13K doing maintenance again (LINK TO MY E46 SPREADSHEET). However, I did learn I am somewhat of a masochist, I enjoy taking cars that aren’t meant to handle the best and push them beyond what the automaker intended the average consumer to use it for. This will be outlined in the sections below.

Aftermarket Support

Another aspect I’m concerned about is aftermarket support or track focused aftermarket support. I’m probably wrong, but I think that if a car can perform at the track, it’ll be fine for the street. That’s kind of the whole ethos behind my E46 330CI, I can almost guarantee that it will never break down on the road after all of my preventative maintenance mods. Well, aside from windshield wipers not working in the middle of a rain storm on Hwy 1, but that’s a story for another time.

Budget

This would likely be around 15-20K cash or 30K finance on a used car. Depending on how much ICBC gives me for the 330CI, I could consider a car that’s 40K finance/lease, but I think I would be overextending myself.

[BIC_BAWS]

What cars am I considering?

BMW M3s

Well I think an easy choice is the E46 M3, but I’m also considering a E36 M3 or E90 M3. I’ve always liked the E90 M3 and the E46 M3, but since I’m mostly familiar with the E46 platform, I’ll speak on the latter.

Having an E46 non-M, getting an E46 M3 should be a no brainer since it will likely share the same basic maintenance that I performed to my 330ci that totals about $13K. This would consist of a full cooling system overhaul, suspension overhaul (shocks/springs + RE plates, guibo, RTABs, RTAB limiters, LCA, LCAB, etc), engine/trans mounts, and shifter bushings (will probably just use my RTD for this tbh). I have calculated M3 specific maintenance to be about $9K, which would include Rear Carrier Arm Bushing (subframe reinforcement) with Vincebar, Rod Bearings, and VANOS rebuild with Besian Systems.

While the E46 M3 would be an amazing car, for its daily ability and track, I’m just not sure if I want to spend the next 4 years of my life doing maintenance again. All the other M3s listed above are in consideration as well, just the same issue of maintenance.

Justin really got down what I was saying, his response is top notch:

Originally Posted by Simplex123

Completely agree with that. And ITR really is perfect for the track where it feels most at home. With the needs he listed though, I don't feel it's the perfect car for him though.

For the M3, a very basic reinforcement with plates welded is definitely going to crack (again) - especially if you are planning on tracking the car. 90% of the time you won't be able to see the cracks until you drop the whole rear. If you were to go with the M3 route, you'll definitely need to pony up more $$ to catch up on all of the past due work. 25k examples will get you one in good physical condition and maybe 6spd - but the maintenance department will still be lacking. I don't think I've seen a properly sorted out E46 M3 for sale locally - they all need a lot of love to get it to the point where you are comfortable tracking it.

If you had a DD and this is your second car, I would tell you to get an ITR right away - but if you want a single car to both go to the track AND look professional, I'm not sure the ITR would be the one. Non-car people will not look at the ITR and think anything of it like enthusiasts. It comes down to how much you care about how your car may portray yourself to your client.

If you wanted to stay with BMW I would recommend an E82 or E90 330i. Of course, you win some and lose some. With this route you lose the raw feeling of the ITR chassis but still would be a good compromise at the track. Those two have come down so much in price that you can get it for way less than 18k You can then use the rest of the money to mod and prep for the track. On top of that, they will still look professional enough to meet clients in.

E90 M3 would be cool cause 4 door M3 LOL

[BIC_BAWS]

Forester XT

Apparently this is basically impossible.

Spoiler!

I’ve always had a soft spot for the 2008 Forester XT in WRB and M/T. Unfortunately, it seems as if it’s as if it’s harder to find than a Legacy Spec B (which I also want).



I’ve also had a soft sport for the SH Forester XT. A few years ago, I saw a black one in Coquitlam, lowered on Gold BBS STI wheels with a sweet sound track.
If I’m being honest, I know nothing about Subarus except that both of these are probably powered by a EJ25 and probably just as unreliable as a M3. Boom. Also I think while they make great dailys, I wonder how hard it would be to make it a competent track car (or dual duty car). This looks like a cool but very expensive SH FXT build

[BIC_BAWS]

BRZ/FRS/86
So I drove a brz for the day, keep in mind, I'm the biggest BRZ hater. I drove it from Richmond to North Van and shockingly, I couldn't stop smiling. Then I drove to Squamish and back to Richmond. I'm fucking shook. For a stock car, it's really good. Hell, the suspension is better (or on par) and rides nicer than my Bilstein B8s. It takes Sea to Sky so smoothly, in the E46 you can really feel the weight, but in the brz it was so put together. There was no body roll, but it was definitely gutless. Typically after the 60 zone ends past the mine, on the uphill section, I can cruise up in 4th in the E46. But in the BRZ, I had to downshift to 3rd and even then, it felt like it was struggling.

Overall, I drove it like I was driving my E46 to see how well it does. Interestingly, I felt like the car was going a lot faster than it’s actual speed. For reference, for me to feel like I’m doing a quick number in the E46, I’d have to be doing about 40KM/HR faster than the BRZ. Weirdly enough though, my 330CI is built more for the track than a daily, but I don't feel exhausted or anything driving it for the whole day. But I feel tired as fuck driving the BRZ. Must be the seats.
I don’t think I’d get a BRZ though, the back seats are basically useless. I might as well consider a 350Z or 370Z at that point.

[BIC_BAWS]

Notable Mentions
1st gen IS300 in M/T would be cool but it seems impossible to find. Before the E46, there was a several but very high kms and about 8-10K.
I’m not a fan of RHD for daily driving, but I guess if I can’t find one an Altezza RS200 would be cool too. I assume it has LSD?

2nd gen IS350 in M/T (if it exists)

1st gen TSX in M/T (or EuroR)

9th gen Civic Si (FB6) would be a great daily. I might hate myself driving it though, the rev hang is terrible. I think the factory tune on the K24 is just crap. But at least it has Bluetooth, navi, and a nice interior.

If I could afford it (probably not LOL): GS F; IS F; Genesis G70/Kia Stinger; F80 M3; M2

[BIC_BAWS]

DC2/DB8 Type R?
I’ve always had a soft spot for the DB8 Type R. Everyone hates it, that’s probably why I like it LOL.
Type R Thread

Originally Posted by BIC_BAWS

Ok guys, I know I'm going to get a biased answer in here. But since that 18K ITR was on the topic for a bit and my car is most likely written off, should I buy the 18K ITR (seems to be just as shady) or an 18K E46 M3 (Alberta title, rusty, rebuilt, 144K km, reinforced subframe, vanos and rod bearings are done).

Spoiler!

Originally Posted by 320icar

You can buy a clean rust free bc m3 for under 20k.

Originally Posted by VR6GTI

I wouldn’t pay more than 14k for that ITR

Originally Posted by Prostrho

I owned both a E46 m3 and a ITR at same time. I still have my ITR and sold the E46.
IMO they are very different car. Is it your "1 car solution?" Eg is this going to be your DD and weekend and Road trip car?
ITR can do daily duties without issues but i didnt enjoy driving it as a DD. Too much NVH and 3500rpm on the highway is tiring. The ITR comes alive on track and thats where it shines.
The E46 is a much more balanced all arounder that does everything quite well (except reliability maybe?)

Originally Posted by TouringTeg

Most owners don’t daily their ITR but there are still a few in Vancouver like the 396km one. They are garage kept weekend toys.

Originally Posted by teggy604

E46 are great cars, but once it shoots the poop its pretty much done.
With the ITR you wont really miss a beat. You don't have to be worried about breaking something on a Honda at a track day. Parts are everywhere. Engine swaps are dime a dozen. You can stick with any B series or if you got cash to burn and feel adventurous move into the K series engines.

Originally Posted by Simplex123

Completely agree with that. And ITR really is perfect for the track where it feels most at home.
If you had a DD and this is your second car, I would tell you to get an ITR right away - but if you want a single car to both go to the track AND look professional, I'm not sure the ITR would be the one. Non-car people will not look at the ITR and think anything of it like enthusiasts. It comes down to how much you care about how your car may portray yourself to your client.

[BIC_BAWS]

How to Deal With a Write Off?
Official Latest Pic Thread

Originally Posted by BIC_BAWS

I think this time, it's done for good. I think the worst part is that I finally, after 4 years, got my car dialed in exactly the way I wanted it. I was going to do a full 7 day paint correction. But, it is the end of an era.

Sleep easy. I always pushed ya and you always performed.

Originally Posted by BIC_BAWS

ICBC ain't gonna pay out M3 money LOL. I'll be lucky if i get 5K tbh. 5K won't even buy me a comparable 330ci, with all the work done to it, completely sorted, and factory spec with Msport aero, shadowline, black cube, and the alcantara interior.

Spoiler!

Originally Posted by fliptuner

Maryhill and Pitt?
If you really want it repaired, you can try to push for a cash settlement, to get it fixed on your own

Originally Posted by 68style

... or refuse to sign the writeoff form and tell them you want your settlement minus the buyback fee... when an old MR2 I had got hit head-on I asked to buy it back and they resisted for awhile, but gave it to me for $800 and then I just had a shop front clip it, paint it and sold it for profit............... but if you really like the car, you can get it fixed and keep it + the cash you get (whatever is left from fixing it).

Originally Posted by BIC_BAWS

Yeah it was Maryhill and Pitt, around 2PM yesterday.
Would this be a rebuild title if I refused to sign the write-off form? The body shop I went to right after, which coincidentally I met JPark for the first time, suggested this route as well. But they said it would be expensive. Write-offs are typically 70% over cash value, I'm currently at 132% and expected to be more.
I think what sucks is that I have all the rare parts that ever existed for a non facelifted E46 330, but it's all gonna go to some scrap yard. That and it's finally dialed in after 4 years.

Originally Posted by 320icar

Dude buy backs if it’s scrapped is pennies on the dollar. Someone local wrecked an RS, bought it back from icbc for 5k to build for rally (that’s 10% of its worth)

Originally Posted by 68style

Your buyback price will be nothing even if you decide not to fix it you can part your car out if you want.
But yes it would have a rebuilt title if you fixed it and got it inspected. I would shop around, send your pictures to a few places asking how much to fix, ask ICBC what the buyback price is and do the math figure out what works best for you.
Don’t let it go to the scrapyard for free tho! Some shop will buy it for nothing at auction and part it out / fix it.

Originally Posted by underscore

Buy another one and swap everything over?

[320icar]

Tl;dr

Focus RS

Spoiler!

-Can still be found used to finance, usually lightly used.
- way faster than you’d expect. Really fun on track, consistently the fastest stock class car at any autox event across North America
- still a focus. Most parts for maintenance are cheap
- pretty good aftermarket support.
- very easy to diy and work on
- absolutely a future classic no question. Just look at its current resale versus a golf R or m2

[mb_]

135i just based on what I skimmed through

Would have suggested FRS/BRZ/86 but seems like you're trying to convince yourself not to get one. It's definitely slow on a straight line but if that's a deal breaker for you then it might not be for you. Had mine for 5 years with 40+ track days and 30k-35k a year of driving (until I picked up a beater/daily for winter) and it's been relatively cheap to maintain/mod

[Iron Chef]

135i manual

[twitchyzero]

e90 m or golf r

dont show up to a meeting in a sti/evolution/typer

[frost91]

every used car is going to have a bunch of maintenance needed.

i would def wait around for an e46 m3 or e90 m3.
(this coming from an e46 m3 owner)

good luck!

[Spoon]

Originally Posted by twitchyzero

dont show up to a meeting in a sti/evolution/typer

Spoiler!

[320icar]

Your list is kind of all over the place. You seem to be cross shopping

- Korean, Japanese, German, American
- rwd, fwd, awd
- 4 door, 2 door, hatch, wagon, 2 seater
- na v6, na flat 4, turbo flat 4, straight 6, v8, twin turbo v6 etc

I think a more simple streamlined wants and needs list is required

[JDMDreams]

If you're gonna do the commute have you thought about a phev just so you can get a hov sticker. That is gonna save you a lot of time during rush hour. I'm still on the fence about getting a model 3 once life gets back to normal, traffic is starting to get busy and gas prices will probably go back up

[underscore]

- old, newish, brand new

Definitely narrow down the functionality you need from the car and work from that. I see mention of things like showing up to meetings, do you ever have to drive higher ups or clients around?

Also I recall you posting in the RE thread about looking to buy a house soon, be careful financing anything as it may impact how much of a mortgage you're approved for.

[!LittleDragon]

2004 Pontiac GTO?

[dared3vil0]

2016+ WRX with a stick, of course.

[TypeRNammer]

On another thread I saw you mentioned that you have the intent to purchase a place soon, and for that I would absolutely avoid financing a car 1000%

On top of that, I see you have a shit ton of cars listed in which they are all over the place in terms of budget and duty.

I think your next logical car would be either the BMW 128i or 135i (later model). Wifey had a 128i before, it was a bare bones automatic. Felt like a fun car, pretty nimble. Could call it a modern day E46 330ci. I was looking for one myself actually but in a unicorn trim model, but sort of gave up on it. The 128i with m sport package is almost double the price of the earlier models.

I wouldn't bother with Subaru unicorn cars and the overly inflated prices. Legacy Spec B's pop up once in a blue moon and they are usually high mileage. Same with the Forester XT's in stick shift.

[SkunkWorks]

I've got a first gen 5 speed manual Insight calling your name if you're going to rock that commute

[JoshuaWong]

+1

The 128i or even the E90/92 328i is great with a stick. Faster than what it seems on paper. The engine is super smooth, revs like cream and it's really reliable. If you think you still need more power, get the 3 stage manifold, intake, header and tune. That will get you close to 300hp crank.

Just old enough to be affordable, just new enough to be enjoyable without sacrificing too much comfort. Just simple enough to work on yourself.

Coming from a former E90 330i, 335i, E92 M3, owner of an N52 now.

It won't feel like an FRS in the corner no matter what you do to it but as a single-car its actually really useful, even the coupe with the fold-down seats. I've done small moves with it actually and it did well in the snowstorm we had a couple of months ago on Blizzaks. Never got stuck once even on the island when the ferries were canceled.

Commute: it's damped enough to be sporty but really comfortable on long trips. Beats my family's Panamera which is way too stiff. Good on gas, take regular engine oil, unlike my old M. You don't need to worry about putting 100km on it every day, only issues are valve cover gasket, thermostat, water pump. Do it like every 130-150k and your good. Otherwise pretty much problem-free. Never had any electrical problem in any of my E90/92.

Originally Posted by TypeRNammer

On another thread I saw you mentioned that you have the intent to purchase a place soon, and for that I would absolutely avoid financing a car 1000%

On top of that, I see you have a shit ton of cars listed in which they are all over the place in terms of budget and duty.

I think your next logical car would be either the BMW 128i or 135i (later model). Wifey had a 128i before, it was a bare bones automatic. Felt like a fun car, pretty nimble. Could call it a modern day E46 330ci. I was looking for one myself actually but in a unicorn trim model, but sort of gave up on it. The 128i with m sport package is almost double the price of the earlier models.

I wouldn't bother with Subaru unicorn cars and the overly inflated prices. Legacy Spec B's pop up once in a blue moon and they are usually high mileage. Same with the Forster Cat's in stick shift.

[whitev70r]

Easy, the answer is always Golf R. Get the newest one that your budget can afford.

[bcrdukes]

German
Masochist
$30K budget

Get another German car. BMW will hit all that criteria. Don't bother with Japanese. Will be too reliable.

[vyrospec]

Miata is always the answer
- within budget
- lots of aftermarket
- fun to drive/daily-able
- probably has something broken for you to fix
- lack of power? just k-swap

/thread

[Roach]

I just got rid of my 1st gen TSX manual which is on your list. I actually enjoyed it for commuting. Decent on fuel, spacious and the engine is very smooth. A decent cheap commuter car.

Got a Golf R manual now. Probably one of the best all-around cars I have experienced. Technology, power, agility. It is a bit tight for 4 adults and the trunk space with seats folded isn't as much as I had with my MS3 or STI hatchbacks but still decent.

Kev