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I buy from Matter3D since it's a local Victoria business and their prices are unbeatable when buying 8 spools (an automatic 25% discount on PLA/PETG).
The Bambu ones are probably easier to work with as a newbie since they have profiles that are automatically loaded via RFID tags. Third party filament need calibrating for the best print quality and can take a little time.
Gotcha that makes sense, I'm probably gonna order a few rolls from them in the mean time also 25% off (but same as any roll on amazon lol)
Do you have any other recommended accessories I should order with the bambu itself?
The P1S + AMS has been amazing so far compared to my CR6. Haven't had any issues so far with it yet and I can print pretty confidently without worrying if my print is going to mess up or not
Setup so far:
Haven't tried printing any other material just yet but will try some PETG.
I did also end up ordering from Matter3D they have a sale right now for 30% which makes it even cheaper than the Sunlu stuff on amazon
Awesome. Not sure if you have any, but print some of those spool dessicant holders. It supposedly helps keep the spool spinning when it gets low on filament.
I am now however facing an issue with my AMS The A3 spot in the AMS always gets stuck unloading. I have to undo the ptfe tube and then try to pull the filament back. It requires a lot more force to pull it back through the feeder.
I am now however facing an issue with my AMS The A3 spot in the AMS always gets stuck unloading. I have to undo the ptfe tube and then try to pull the filament back. It requires a lot more force to pull it back through the feeder.
Hmm yea mine doesn't even get to that point unfortunately it doesn't budge when trying to unload out off the feeder.
What are you usually adjusting / looking at when taking apart the AMS? Did you have to replace anything at all?
Monkey paw curls I guess for me lol didn't want to tinker with the printer and just print but now i just gotta tinker with the AMS ��
Nope, I've always just popped open the AMS, disconnected the PTFE tube and the two screws holding the tray down, flipped it over and have been able to remove any snapped off filament.
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Owner of Vansterdam's 420th thanks. OH YEAUHHH.
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Originally Posted by 89blkcivic
Did I tell you guys black is my favourite colour? My Ridgeline is black. My Honda Fit is black. Wish my dick was black........ LOL.
Tweaked my setup a bit. Needed more space for my filament, so I ended up swapping over to a Kallax. Now I can fit up to 6 filament per cubby.
The filament is in those 4L cereal containers with a dessicant spool insert and a hygrometer mounted at the top to check for humidity.
Can be a bit wobbly at times, but prints have remained consistent. Have only had one model give me trouble with what looked like ringing, but the issue was the same even when I placed the printer on the ground, lol.
Just need to figure out why the humidity in like half the containers are not going down.
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Quote:
Owner of Vansterdam's 420th thanks. OH YEAUHHH.
Quote:
Originally Posted by 89blkcivic
Did I tell you guys black is my favourite colour? My Ridgeline is black. My Honda Fit is black. Wish my dick was black........ LOL.
That's a sweet looking setup now. I really like the filament storage. I just got some vaccuum sealed bags and throw them into my besta lol
Did you end up getting a dryer? From what I've read unless it's already dry, the dessicants don't really do a good job of absorbing moisture / reducing humidity. They can help prevent it but you'lll need to be dry to start off.
I don't know anything about 3d printing but my bro in law has a 3d printer and showed me this software called hueforge. I played around with it with some pretty neat results:
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Originally Posted by skyxx
Sonick is a genius. I won't go into detail what's so great about his post. But it's damn good!
2010 Toyota Rav4 Limited V6 - Wifey's Daily Driver
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2007 Toyota Rav4 Sport V6 - Sold
1999 Mazda Miata - Sold
2003 Mazda Protege5 - Sold
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1990 Mazda Miata - Sold
$1250 for 800x800mm is pretty fucking great if it fits your use case.
Personally, that would take up too much space in my house and I don't have a need for something that large. Being able to print multiple objects due to multi-nozzle is sweet though.
I'm waiting for someone to offer something competitive to the Bambu P1S with a bed size of around 400x400mm
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Owner of Vansterdam's 420th thanks. OH YEAUHHH.
Quote:
Originally Posted by 89blkcivic
Did I tell you guys black is my favourite colour? My Ridgeline is black. My Honda Fit is black. Wish my dick was black........ LOL.
Got the Creality 2.0 filament dryer (there's a 1.0 that looks very similar, not sure what the difference is since there's no reviews for this one).
Drying out a spool of PLA that I found was a bit brittle and snapped in my AMS. Got over a dozen spools, so it's going to take like an entire week to dry everything, lol.
I should've just backed that Sunlu S4 because I feel like I would want to dry all my spools now for peace of mind. Being able to dry 4 spools at once would save so much time.
145W according to the manual, so it's about 6c per drying session at the base BC Hydro rates. Possibly less since I imagine 145W is when it's running at the max 65W (I'm using 50W for PLA).
__________________
Quote:
Owner of Vansterdam's 420th thanks. OH YEAUHHH.
Quote:
Originally Posted by 89blkcivic
Did I tell you guys black is my favourite colour? My Ridgeline is black. My Honda Fit is black. Wish my dick was black........ LOL.
How big of a deal is keeping the filament dry or not? I just throw them in a zip lock bag with one of those silica packs. They're not airtight though as the seal does break over time.
I'm just a casual hobbyist though, so maybe it's good enough regardless? I never done a side by side comparison to see.
__________________ __________________________________________________ Last edited by AzNightmare; Today at 10:09 AM
My office is in the basement so it gets pretty humid (it's half below ground). It's reading 57% humidity right now, but I've seen it as high as 65%. I think you want to store it ideally under 40%.
I recently had a few wet spools because they were very brittle and when printing would come out with poor quality. After that, I invested in better storage containers (that are airtight), desiccant, and hygrometers to check on the humidity within the containers.
I previously just threw some dessicant packs in Ikea Samla containers (that are not airtight). My friend said he has never had issues with wet filament doing that so I just did what he did, but I think my basement might just be more humid than his (my house is from the 1950s, his is recently built).
As long as your filament storage bags are airtight, that should be fine. I use these desiccant beads because they turn dark green/blue when they need to be dehydrated.
When you say wet spools, do you mean wet where you can touch it. Like condensation. Or you mean wet where where it's chemically and we have no way of seeing it on our own.
I have no idea what humidity my filament are at since I don't have anything to read that. That being said, I haven't noticed my prints being any worse with old filament I've had for a few years.
__________________ __________________________________________________ Last edited by AzNightmare; Today at 10:09 AM
By wet, it means that the filament has soaked up a lot of moisture from the air. Best way of checking if your filament is wet is to do a snap test, and if it's brittle it has soaked up too much water from the air.
You can't tell if filament is wet from just touching it. You can only really tell when you get bad print quality like a lot of stringing, uneven layers, blobs and zits, etc.
If your filament is only brittle for the first couple of inches (it snaps off like the first video), it might just be under strain and is not actually wet. I've noticed it personally with filament stored in the AMS.
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Owner of Vansterdam's 420th thanks. OH YEAUHHH.
Quote:
Originally Posted by 89blkcivic
Did I tell you guys black is my favourite colour? My Ridgeline is black. My Honda Fit is black. Wish my dick was black........ LOL.
Been drying all my Matter3D filament. A few spools may have gotten ruined because the glue holding the cardboard spool has failed. Not sure if they will tangle during an actual print.
I think I might get the Bambu spools for my next filament because they come with the plastic spools and then see if Matter3D has refills for Bambu spools.
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Quote:
Owner of Vansterdam's 420th thanks. OH YEAUHHH.
Quote:
Originally Posted by 89blkcivic
Did I tell you guys black is my favourite colour? My Ridgeline is black. My Honda Fit is black. Wish my dick was black........ LOL.
ok so I've been thrown into the world of 3D printing as I've been tasked to try to get a Creality Ender 3 v2 we have gathering dust in the office, working. I am handy but this is my first time touching one, zero experience.
Took awhile to figure out why the filament wasn't sticking to the base but finally got the thing moving and printing and laying down filament.
However the filament coming out seems very thin (i.e. thinner than the 0.4 nozzle) or the lines aren't close enough, and so it's not filling in the print properly. I have no idea what its supposed to look like or why it is happening.
I replaced the nozzle with a new one (0.4) already to ensure it's not clogged.
Is it something in the file or printer configuration or setup? I put the STL file into the Creality Printer app, made no changes or adjustments, and exported the gcode file. Is there such thing as 'bad filament'? It has been sitting out for 1+ years.
Pics inside spoiler:
Spoiler!
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Originally Posted by skyxx
Sonick is a genius. I won't go into detail what's so great about his post. But it's damn good!
2010 Toyota Rav4 Limited V6 - Wifey's Daily Driver
2009 BMW 128i - Daily Driver
2007 Toyota Rav4 Sport V6 - Sold
1999 Mazda Miata - Sold
2003 Mazda Protege5 - Sold
1987 BMW 325is - Sold
1990 Mazda Miata - Sold
Probably underextrusion if you tried a new nozzle. What software are you using? OrcaSlicer has built-in calibration tools to calibrate your flow ratio.
__________________
Quote:
Owner of Vansterdam's 420th thanks. OH YEAUHHH.
Quote:
Originally Posted by 89blkcivic
Did I tell you guys black is my favourite colour? My Ridgeline is black. My Honda Fit is black. Wish my dick was black........ LOL.
Probably underextrusion if you tried a new nozzle. What software are you using? OrcaSlicer has built-in calibration tools to calibrate your flow ratio.
Creality Print, just the default one it comes with.
In the app the default settings were Infill Flow/Wall Flow 100%, and Support Flow 80%
__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by skyxx
Sonick is a genius. I won't go into detail what's so great about his post. But it's damn good!
2010 Toyota Rav4 Limited V6 - Wifey's Daily Driver
2009 BMW 128i - Daily Driver
2007 Toyota Rav4 Sport V6 - Sold
1999 Mazda Miata - Sold
2003 Mazda Protege5 - Sold
1987 BMW 325is - Sold
1990 Mazda Miata - Sold