3D Printing

[Manic!]

Have you levelled the bed? You have to manually do it on an ender.

[Razor Ramon HG]

Originally Posted by sonick

Creality Print, just the default one it comes with.

In the app the default settings were Infill Flow/Wall Flow 100%, and Support Flow 80%

Try OrcaSlicer, it has Ender 3 V2 support. It also has some default standard profiles that is probably a good starting point.

Like Manic said, ensure that your bed is leveled. I used to use calibration squares from Thingiverse to do it. I have a Bambu printer now so it's done automatically.

https://help.prusa3d.com/article/fir...tion-i3_112364

I assumed your bed was levelled, so it didn't occur to me.

https://all3dp.com/2/ender-3-under-e...s-tips-tricks/

What temperature settings are you using and what filament are you trying to print with?

And yeah, if filament is staying out for over a year, it's probably wet. Do the snap test.

[sonick]

Yeah I levelled the bed but not sure how far off from the nozzle it should be. I do know its mostly level because it seems like the filament lays down pretty evenly, its just thin. I did have to adjust the Z-offset a bit.

PLA filament, not sure of brand need to check the box. But tried 210/65 when I was trying to get it to stick to the bed and I just kept it there.

Maybe its my lack of experience, but thought its more an issue that somethings not working properly than just minor adjustments, coz looking at the first pic (https://i.imgur.com/fFKPRGw.jpg) by the third layer the base should be completely solid, but its like completely see-through.

Can minor things like 5 degrees temp or base level really cause that big of a difference in the print?

At this stage I don't need the thing to look immaculate, just need something solid lol.

[Razor Ramon HG]

Your first layer is fucked. It should be pretty solid with a bit of see-through, lol.

I would keep printing test squares and adjusting until they're good.

YouTube

Take a look at this video. That's how a single layer square should look.

[Manic!]

Originally Posted by sonick

Yeah I levelled the bed but not sure how far off from the nozzle it should be. I do know its mostly level because it seems like the filament lays down pretty evenly, its just thin. I did have to adjust the Z-offset a bit.

PLA filament, not sure of brand need to check the box. But tried 210/65 when I was trying to get it to stick to the bed and I just kept it there.

Maybe its my lack of experience, but thought its more an issue that somethings not working properly than just minor adjustments, coz looking at the first pic (https://i.imgur.com/fFKPRGw.jpg) by the third layer the base should be completely solid, but its like completely see-through.

Can minor things like 5 degrees temp or base level really cause that big of a difference in the print?

At this stage I don't need the thing to look immaculate, just need something solid lol.

Use a piece of paper to check each corner. It should just slide in between the nozzle and bed with a little grab. Then check a second time. Sometimes my first layer is not great but the print turns out fine.

[Razor Ramon HG]

I remembered when I had the Anycubic printer. I was so obsessed with first layer quality for the several weeks I had it, lol.

[sonick]

A new print I sent over for my brother in law to do, most advanced one yet with 3 separate 3d printed layers/files, really happy with this one

[Manic!]

That's looking really good. Bambu Labs sells a kit with 4 colors of filament and a light-up board for lithophane's.

https://ca.store.bambulab.com/produc...myk-lithophane

[AzNightmare]

There's some decent sales with Bambu lab right now.

I'm on the fence with the A1 Mini + AMS Lite combo.
But with that budget, opens doors to a ton of other options...

Anyone have any thoughts on the A1 Mini or suggestions within that $450~ price range?

[radeonboy]

The A1 mini is the best option in that price range for speed, dependability, and convenience. I’m tempted to get one but I already have a x1 and spent the money on an ams instead.

[AzNightmare]

I had a few questions. Since I have a lot of filament from various brands, will I be able to use them on a AMS lite?

What slicer app is used for Bambu Lab? I've only used Cura before but just wondering if I can still use Cura or will I have to learn something else.

Does it have the ability for me to send my prints directly from my slicer app on my computer to the printer via wifi so I don't have to physically put in a microsd with files and set it up that way. My printer is not close to my computer.

[Razor Ramon HG]

Yeah, most filament brands should fit right on the AMS Lite.

I use Orca Slicer, but the default Bambu Studio is fine. Orca is a fork of Bambu, and Bambu is a fork of Prusa Slicer.

By default, when you slice your models and send them to the printer, the slicer sends them over the internet to Bambu's cloud and down into your system. If you don't want your information being sent to Bambu's cloud, you can enable LAN only mode.

[AzNightmare]

Originally Posted by Razor Ramon HG

By default, when you slice your models and send them to the printer, the slicer sends them over the internet to Bambu's cloud and down into your system. If you don't want your information being sent to Bambu's cloud, you can enable LAN only mode.

How does this work? Do you have to have your printer already turned on or can you set it up so that you just stay on your computer, send the print, and the printer will turn on automatically and do its thing?

[Razor Ramon HG]

Originally Posted by AzNightmare

How does this work? Do you have to have your printer already turned on or can you set it up so that you just stay on your computer, send the print, and the printer will turn on automatically and do its thing?

Yeah, it has to be on. It's like sending a word document to a regular printer from your computer.

[Manic!]

One great thing about Bambulab printers is you can view and print remotely from your phone. Find a design on makerworld and hit print on your phone. You can wath it print via the app.

Anyone ever print a nerf blaster. I am thinking of printing this one. It will be about $160 in parts not including filament. With the right spring darts can go 235 feet per second.

YouTube

YouTube

[Razor Ramon HG]

Damn, that's fucking cool.

Where did you see that it costs $160 in parts?

https://outofdarts.com/products/cynt...40502539583530

Is it not just this + printing the parts? It's about $56 USD shipped to Point Roberts.

[Manic!]

Originally Posted by Razor Ramon HG

Damn, that's fucking cool.

Where did you see that it costs $160 in parts?

https://outofdarts.com/products/cynt...40502539583530

Is it not just this + printing the parts? It's about $56 USD shipped to Point Roberts.

Need darts and some mags also. Plus shipping to Nanaimo.



Worker 15-Round Straight Standard Talon Short Dart Magazine

Transparent Blue
2 x
$26.00
Worker Short Darts 200-pack HE Standard Weight 1.0g
1


Red/Orange
1 x
$23.00
Cynthia Hardware kit
1


.509 k26 - 230FPS
1 x
$63.00
Cost summary
Subtotal
$112.00
Shipping
$49.00
Total
CAD
$161.00

[GLOW]

Originally Posted by radeonboy

The A1 mini is the best option in that price range for speed, dependability, and convenience. I’m tempted to get one but I already have a x1 and spent the money on an ams instead.

is the AMS Lite combo worth it? the mini looks to be a great price but the combo puts it in another price bracket that i'm not sure i'm willing to venture in

[radeonboy]

Originally Posted by GLOW

is the AMS Lite combo worth it? the mini looks to be a great price but the combo puts it in another price bracket that i'm not sure i'm willing to venture in

Yes the AMS lite is worth it for many people. But if its benefits don't matter to you, then save your money now and pick up the AMS lite later once your use cases for it become clear.

The value for me comes from the convenience of not having to swap spools as often and enabling multi-color prints in one go. With the ability to send files from the cloud, it's nice to start printing something without being near the printer and knowing the filament I want to use is ready to go (assuming it's already inside the AMS).

You can read more opinions on Reddit based on different scenarios:
https://www.reddit.com/r/BambuLab/co..._ams_worth_it/

[slow-fastback]

I bought an A1 Mini recently during the sale and have been really happy with it so far. Setup is easy and printing is quite accurate and quick. I was thinking of getting the AMS Lite system for it, but I didn't like how it takes up so much desk space. Would much rather opt for a top-mount system on the more expensive ones.


I think if you're just getting into 3d printing and sticking to one filament at a time, it's definitely worth it. Once you start getting into multi-color prints, I would opt for a higher-end one (unless you have the space).

[Razor Ramon HG]

I would just get the AMS Lite for now. It's only $190 or $200 more (depending on which A1 model you get). If you don't end up using it, you can easily resell it on FB Marketplace.

Just note that since the AMS Lite isn't enclosed, you might want to print an enclosure for it so your filament doesn't get wet.

I got the regular AMS and while I don't use it for much multi-colour printing, it is very convenient to be able to switch between my most commonly used colours and it keeps my filament nice and dry. It's also great for printing clean and easy to remove supports since PLA/PETG do not stick together.

[AzNightmare]

Originally Posted by slow-fastback

I bought an A1 Mini recently during the sale and have been really happy with it so far. Setup is easy and printing is quite accurate and quick. I was thinking of getting the AMS Lite system for it, but I didn't like how it takes up so much desk space. Would much rather opt for a top-mount system on the more expensive ones.


I think if you're just getting into 3d printing and sticking to one filament at a time, it's definitely worth it. Once you start getting into multi-color prints, I would opt for a higher-end one (unless you have the space).

There's a lot of ways to mod and top mount the AMS Lite if you search online. I'm banking on doing this if I end up getting the A1 Mini... because the amount of table space it takes is not ideal for me.

[Razor Ramon HG]

Just finished making a case for my computer. Wanted something that was similar in dimensions to my previous Meshlicious case, but could support a full size CPU cooler.

https://www.printables.com/model/740...ular-itx-case/

Aside from some aluminum extrusions for the frame and the necessary screws and nuts, everything was 3D printed in PETG.

The only thing remaining is designing some proper feet for a vertical orientation (rather than the simple stands in the picture) and to add some USB ports to the front panel.

[radeonboy]

Originally Posted by Razor Ramon HG

I got the regular AMS and while I don't use it for much multi-colour printing, it is very convenient to be able to switch between my most commonly used colours and it keeps my filament nice and dry. It's also great for printing clean and easy to remove supports since PLA/PETG do not stick together.

I've been using my printer more often since getting my AMS and the extra parts missing on the X1 (basically turning my printer into an X1C). Nowadays I'm waiting for prints to finish so I can start printing a new model.

I've yet to try mixing PLA/PETG for supports, but that seems like a great use of AMS as well. I have a roll of PETG but have shied away from using it since I don't have a dryer (yet) for the filament.

Now I'm tempted to get an A1 mini for prototyping and leave the X1 for enclosure-required filaments. But I've already spent way too much between the AMS, upgrade parts, and spools from this sale

[AzNightmare]

I've finally decided on the A1 with AMS instead of the A1 mini.

I only intend to keep one printer around so the A1 Mini would be too small I think in the long run.