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Old 08-06-2024, 10:28 AM   #151
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Cheap ABS smells but good stuff like Polymaker doesn't really smell.

I was referring to ABS warping on open frame printers because ABS prints don't like drafts and cool ambient temps. That's why I built the Voron, it's enclosed so the internal print chamber gets up to about 60c so my ABS prints don't warp. Also, because it's enclosed, the smells don't get out. I didn't build this printer with a vent.

Larger animals will probably be okay... hope you don't have birds... lol
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Old 08-06-2024, 12:32 PM   #152
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i got chihuahua's..... maybe this isnt such a good idea. this stuff seems highly poisonous to tiny fuzzy things.
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Old 08-06-2024, 12:44 PM   #153
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Who says the dogs need to be exposed to this stuff?
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Old 08-06-2024, 12:50 PM   #154
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Just stick to safer filament like PLA and PETG. The general consensus is that an air purifier nearby and adequate ventilation in the room is enough. There aren't really any major VOCs that you need to worry about like styrene in ABS/ASA.
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Old 08-06-2024, 12:54 PM   #155
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Who says the dogs need to be exposed to this stuff?
i should put it in my "guest" room that's frequented by my wife's cunty friend. I kinda wanna snuff her out anyways.
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Old 08-06-2024, 01:19 PM   #156
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ABS is not for beginners anyways... especially if you don't have an enclosed printer. If you're just going to print things for looking at and throw in the trash, PLA is fine... it's the most common and easiest to print... and it's made from corn... lol
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Old 10-15-2024, 11:06 PM   #157
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Thanks partially due to the discussion here, I picked up a Bambu A1 with AMS Lite last month on sale.

Printed a bunch of stuff/tools to fix little things around the house, but Halloween's coming up, so costume props have been consuming printer time.

My kid wanted to be Antman, so we got a commercial costume and mask, but i resized a prop schematic i found online. Had to create/engineer the mounting system to the belt. The Pym vials are custom as is the disc holder, and the vials/regulator have magnets attached so they snap into the regulator.

I'm impressed by the detail level available even with FDM printing.

The ten rings took some finessing to print out clean with minimal support. They're designed hollow so I can put in glow bracelets to light them up. The blue light is just a quick lighting test. I also designed in magnets so that they self organize into a clean stack, but are still loose enough to jangle around on my wrists.

I haven't found a good Shang Chi top that I like yet, so I'm going as his dad, Wenwu. Going to do the flashback suit version. Grey suit, black shirt. Easy Peasy.


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Old 10-20-2024, 03:52 PM   #158
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sweet, i picked up a bambu a1 mini a few months ago. been using it to make vacuum adapters for my tools in the garage. quickly found out that the ones that are available from sites like printables are not always as compatible as advertised, so i had to learn how to make my own in fusion360.
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Old 10-20-2024, 06:42 PM   #159
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Yeah, I don't think I've printed anything yet without modifying or confirming the measurements with calipers. I haven't found time to play with fusion360. I've made do with tinkerCad so far.
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Old 10-21-2024, 12:12 AM   #160
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I picked up the Bambu A1 with AMS Lite back in the summer. I've been printing a bunch of things and enjoy 3D printing again.

The 5 mins of auto levelling and all the automated prep work does take a bit longer to get the print started, but for the most part, I really just send the print from my desk and leave it. I know I'll have a good print done when I check on it later.

It beats having a less reliable printer start printing right away, but needing to stand there for 5 mins to watch it just to ensure the first layer doesn't mess up before I can leave it. My old printer had a warped bed too, so even though it was a 220x220, the actual area of successful printing was more like... 150x150.
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Old 10-21-2024, 12:08 PM   #161
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i guess im spoiled, this is my first 3d printer and it works so flawlessly
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Old 12-29-2024, 06:55 PM   #162
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Originally Posted by Razor Ramon HG View Post

Got the Creality 2.0 filament dryer (there's a 1.0 that looks very similar, not sure what the difference is since there's no reviews for this one).

Drying out a spool of PLA that I found was a bit brittle and snapped in my AMS. Got over a dozen spools, so it's going to take like an entire week to dry everything, lol.

I should've just backed that Sunlu S4 because I feel like I would want to dry all my spools now for peace of mind. Being able to dry 4 spools at once would save so much time.

145W according to the manual, so it's about 6c per drying session at the base BC Hydro rates. Possibly less since I imagine 145W is when it's running at the max 65W (I'm using 50W for PLA).
I just bought a filament dryer. How does the humidity percentage work?
What value is considered good or bad and is the humidity percentage on the display detecting the levels of the filament inside the machine or the overall humidity of the room?
I have the Sovol SH02

Are these machines just for drying filament or can you also put the filament inside and it has a way to detect if the filament even needs to be dried?
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Old 12-29-2024, 07:34 PM   #163
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I just bought a filament dryer. How does the humidity percentage work?
What value is considered good or bad and is the humidity percentage on the display detecting the levels of the filament inside the machine or the overall humidity of the room?
I have the Sovol SH02

Are these machines just for drying filament or can you also put the filament inside and it has a way to detect if the filament even needs to be dried?
The humidity percentage is the humidity inside the dryer. It doesn't detect the humidity inside the roll so you need to dry it yourself.

I usually only dry filament if I start noticing quality issues when printing or if I know it has been exposed to the open air for a while.

Your dryer can detect the humidity of your room I guess if you open it up.
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Old 12-29-2024, 08:09 PM   #164
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The humidity percentage is the humidity inside the dryer. It doesn't detect the humidity inside the roll so you need to dry it yourself.

I usually only dry filament if I start noticing quality issues when printing or if I know it has been exposed to the open air for a while.

Your dryer can detect the humidity of your room I guess if you open it up.
So there's no way to detect the actual water content inside in the filament?
Is the idea to just leave the filament in the dryer for several hours and it's assumed the filament will match whatever the humidity reading is for inside the dryer?

My machine is reading 24% humidity right now. I've been running it for about 1.5 hrs so far. I'm currently drying this really bad roll right now as a test subject.

It's so brittle, it breaks when I'm just trying to loop it through the spool holes to prevent the filament from unwinding.
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Old 12-29-2024, 09:39 PM   #165
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I don't really use the humidity sensor at all on my dryer, but I've only had a few really bad rolls. In that case I'd just fire it up for several hours in the dryer and then do a small test print to check if it's good.
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Old 12-29-2024, 09:45 PM   #166
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I've seen some folks on youtube weigh their filament rolls before and after drying to see if there's been a weight change from moisture loss.
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Old 12-30-2024, 06:32 PM   #167
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Not sure if a dryer is necessary if all you print is PLA and ABS. I have rolls open for over a year and they print fine. If you print a lot of PETG and nylon then it's worth the investment... but a food dehydrator from Value Village will do the same thing for less... lol
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Old 12-31-2024, 12:05 AM   #168
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I've seen some folks on youtube weigh their filament rolls before and after drying to see if there's been a weight change from moisture loss.
yo man, what were the results? I don't want to look this up myself.
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Old 01-01-2025, 12:31 AM   #169
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yo man, what were the results? I don't want to look this up myself.
It depends on the filament, your local room humidity, time in the air etc etc. Bottom line, PLA only needs it, if it's been sitting a while and doesn't pass a bend test otherwise its ok. Mostly specialty filaments need it most.
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Old 01-06-2025, 05:59 PM   #170
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It depends on the filament, your local room humidity, time in the air etc etc. Bottom line, PLA only needs it, if it's been sitting a while and doesn't pass a bend test otherwise its ok. Mostly specialty filaments need it most.
Really? I've been reading PLA doesn't asorb much moisture.
But PETG really gets affected and requires drying the most.
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Old Yesterday, 08:50 PM   #171
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Is there a big database where you printer people share files?

Would be nice to have 1 of you print it, so I can get my hands on a gas cap holder for my Impreza.
https://www.etsy.com/ca/listing/9685...baru-flap-door
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Old Yesterday, 09:16 PM   #172
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Is there a big database where you printer people share files?

Would be nice to have 1 of you print it, so I can get my hands on a gas cap holder for my Impreza.
https://www.etsy.com/ca/listing/9685...baru-flap-door
https://www.printables.com/model/394...older/comments

Looks to be the same model as this one.

I can probably print it for you with PETG, but might warp when it gets super hot. I think if someone has ABS/ASA that would be a better choice.
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