Anyone have a hook up or know anyone that work at Kia?

[ODStryker00]

I am looking to buy a new Kia Niro EV. Looking to pay cash. Although I'm sure there's little wiggle room in EVs nowadays, I'd rather help someone with some commission while hopefully getting some sort of "deal" for myself.

[trollface]

Doesn't' paying cash give you the opposite of a good deal? They make all their money on financing and lease.

[VR6GTI]

I’ve always paid in full and got a better price

[320icar]

Originally Posted by trollface

Doesn't' paying cash give you the opposite of a good deal? They make all their money on financing and lease.

You could always read the contract, finance and pay the 6 weeks minimum then buyout cash with no penalty

[wing_woo]

Originally Posted by VR6GTI

I’ve always paid in full and got a better price

Same here.

[tiger_handheld]

Kim Lamont at Kia West in coquitlam.
She is the #1 kia rep I'm told.

She can do a lot on price (I found a better deal on the island on a Kia but not at a Kia dealer)

[Hehe]

From what I heard, there isn't much room for EVs. Check if they have any stock vehicle with weird config that's sitting on the lot. Those are your best bets in getting discount.

As for cash vs. loan... check what they offer in term of financing vs. cash THEN decide. Don't just go in and tell them you want to pay cash. You just revealed your card without them asking. I usually just haggle the price all the way down, then talk about financing rates vs. cash. Whatever amount to be financed is still depending on the negotiation.

I've run into multiple occasions that after exhausting all rebates and whatever, the financing works out cheaper as it's near 0 or at 0 after very little security deposit (for leases). And you'd actually be better off financing it.

The whole "cash deal to get best deal" is no longer true because manufacturers have different targets and all have their own financing arm. So, depending on what rebates (either for customer or dealership) are available at the time, cash might not be the king anymore.

[trollface]

^ That's what I was told from sales ppl.

[JDMDreams]

What's the reasoning for you guys to pay cash? Isn't it like the worse financial decision as you're losing out on deprecation right when you drive off the lot? And you guys have like $50gs+ in cash just sitting around? As if you're buying a new car interest rates would be pretty low, that much cash in the markets will most likely outperform the interest charge? I don't see the benefits of paying cash. What am I missing out on.

[smoothie.]

Originally Posted by JDMDreams

What's the reasoning for you guys to pay cash? Isn't it like the worse financial decision as you're losing out on deprecation right when you drive off the lot? And you guys have like $50gs+ in cash just sitting around? As if you're buying a new car interest rates would be pretty low, that much cash in the markets will most likely outperform the interest charge? I don't see the benefits of paying cash. What am I missing out on.

people who can't deposit certain income and have it reported

[trollface]

Isn't' that's what the RIVERROCK is for?

[bcrdukes]

Cash can often open the door for further negotiations and discounts that aren't normally offered to those who finance or lease the vehicle. When and which brand you buy with cash also can influence the outcomes depending on your situation.

[wing_woo]

The only reason I got the Sienna for the price we got it for was we told them in the end that we would only buy it if you give that price and he said it wasn't possible. They tell us how we would still be paying within our budget if we finance even though it was more expensive than what we were looking to pay.

Once we told him we were thinking of paying cash, then we got the deal. We got about $4500 off on the vehicle which included a $1500 cash incentive from Toyota. We basically got way over black book value on our trade in.

[Hehe]

The whole idea of dealing with dealerships is that don't play by their steps.

Do one NUMBER at a time and NEVER mix them.

If you are haggling on price, focus on that... once you get the number down to a place you are comfortable, then talk about trade-in, once that's comfortable, talk about financing options/deals (if any). At any point of the deal, a sentence is likely to come up: "what will it take to make a deal today?". Don't give a number, just tell them you don't know and ask them to give you a figure and you'd see if that works.

If it doesn't, don't feel bad to walk away. Because if you don't have enough, they will walk.

Again, don't mix numbers. Once you mix them, they'd simply cut a bit here, and put a bit there. There's an exception that you want to mix in order to get a better deal.

Say if they are dead on price at say 30k. Now you can bring in the trade-in, and say if you were expecting 10k (assuming that's a fair trade-in value) in trade-in and they only offered you 8k, just tell them you won't be able to buy it if it's just 8k... they'll usually come up with another offer... say 9k or something. Take that figure, push a bit, say 11k and see what they say... if they tell you they can't do it. Then tell them you REALLY need 10k to make it work to get the car today. They will usually meet you somewhere in between.

Same thing with financing vs. cash. Always push a bit further than the number you are comfortable with. Worst thing they can do is say no. And unless you are buying something unique, chances are, there are other dealerships in the city to visit.

[68style]

^
How did that work out at Tesla?

Honestly good tips though, anytime you tell someone you really want something they have the advantage so never act like you're dead set that you must have X car

[Eff-1]

Another tip that people might already know but still worth mentioning: There are manufacturer sales incentives and there are dealership sales incentives.

In most cases, the dealer will be reimbursed by the manufacturer for any manufacturer incentives offered. They act like the discount is coming out of the dealership profit margin, but it's not. So don't let that discount influence your negotiation too much because you can get that same discount at any dealership you choose.

It's been years since I was in the dealership business, so things may have changed, but that's what I remember at the time at least.

[twitchyzero]

or just visit 2 hours before they close last day of the quarter
can probably get invoice price as they can meet numbers and the mfgr kickback

[wing_woo]

When I bought my Kia Soul from Kia West, I spent about 4 hours negotiating. We finally came to a deal when we got the price to a number I wanted.

Then they offered $1500 for my trade in but I ended up showing him texts I had exchanged with a different Kia dealership that offered $3000 for my trade in. The only reason I didn't get it from the first dealer was that they priced everything higher than MSRP and I was basically negotiating to get MSRP.

In the end, Kia West gave me $3000 for my trade in. I also got my new Kia on that same day as well. That's the first time I've gone to get a new car and drove away on the same day in the new car. I was quite surprised when they said they will get my new car ready while I do the paperwork.

I went on the last day of the month too.

[Hehe]

Originally Posted by 68style

^
How did that work out at Tesla?

Honestly good tips though, anytime you tell someone you really want something they have the advantage so never act like you're dead set that you must have X car

That's why I prefer Tesla's approach. One price... no haggling or anything.

I like it, I take it.

But since we are talking about legacy dealers, that's the way to approach them. They have a rule to the game, we just figure ways to play along.

[nsx042003]

At the end of the day, the best deals are on a car that you know you love, and then go in hoping you walk in at the right time when management is desperate to get one more going to hit target.

other than that, the cheapest option is to go used.