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Old 02-14-2010, 09:02 PM   #11
noventa
I STILL don't get it
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: van
Posts: 499
Thanked 174 Times in 74 Posts
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Rebuilt status is just as good as new if the rebuilder is good. When you look at bikes you should test ride it to find out if it is "fine". Before you ride, look at the chain and sprocket, tires, fairings, handlebar ends, footpegs etc. You are looking for scraped that should not be there, an indication of it being dropped. Look at the chain, see if the rings are leaking, see if the sprocket is worn out. If they are, they may indicate a poorly maintained bike. Also, when you purchase such a bike, it will cost you another 250 bucks to replace those items. Tires same thing, if they are poor condition its going to cost about 250-350 for another set without labour. Sharp tooth on the rear sprocket may indicated high stress loads from things such as hard acceleration and wheelies. If so, you should see if the front shocks are performing as per manual specs. Bouncing on the front is a good way to see but if you are not familiar with that bike, you may have to go consult the manual and attempt to measure rebound. Test riding, you should make sure the bike tracks straight and no wobbly feeling in the handlebars. A lot fo times, you will find that the front rotors are warped or damaged. Firmly breaking from a 50 km down to zero as fast as you can. If the front cowel shakes and you feel the wheel pulsing your rotors are probably bad or caliper sticking. This will probaly cost you at least 500 to fix so factor that into your cost as well. Last of all, a lot of people screw up their battery because it is prone to draining and they forget to maintain it. Therefore, you will fine a lot of bikes with shitty batteries that will cost you another 100 bucks to replace. Also, check for all the regular stickers which is a good indication of whether the bike has been repainted, salvated, stolen etc.
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