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This part of the tutorial I'll explain the different "add-on" accessories in detail since most people aren't aware of what's avaliable at most "specialty" shops. Most big box shops don't carry these due to the fact that their sales people seldomly sell it.
This list is in NO specific order.
SECURITY RELATED
Hood/Door/Trunk Pin:
This is basically a pin switch that detects the opening of the hood/trunk/door. Most vehicles come with a factory door pin (turns on dome light when the doors open). This is a VERY important option that doesn't cost much that 80% of people tend to overlook. Most cars have the hood release cable in the fender which is basically covered by a piece of thin plastic. Thieves basically can open the hood from the outside of your car and disconnect your battery therefore bypassing the whole alarm without it even going off.
Battery Backup Siren:
Most thieves will try to kill power to the alarm to kill the siren. A Battery Backup Siren is a self powered siren that can be hidden in a more discreet location. Therefore if the thief kills the primary siren, the backup siren will still go off for about an hour or so itself. Most backup sirens will have an emergency override key in case you ever take your car for servicing. So therefore it still needs to be relatively accessible. Lifespan on a battery backup siren is about 2 years before it needs to be replaced.
Dual Zone Impace/Shock sensor:
This is standard in MOST aftermarket alarms. This is often mislabeled as a glass break sensor. This is a sensor that detects shock/impact upon the vehicle. Most shocks sensors on the market are "dual zone" meaning lighter vibrations/impacts will cause it to send a warning chirp, and on harder impacts will trigger the alarm. This does NOT detect if someone jacks up the car, breaks the glass w/ porecelain, rocks the car, etc. It will only go off if something hits/smashes the vehicle.
Glass Break Sensor AKA Audio Sensor:
This provides pre entry protection by detecting tampering/breaking of the vehicles glass/window. Essentially it's a high tech microphone that picks up ultra high frequencies of glass scraping/breaking/tampering. Thieves often use porcelain which shatters the glass but does NOT create ANY impact, therefore a regular alarm will not be triggered.
Digital Tilt Sensor:
Detects even minor lifting or rolling of the vehicle without any of the false alarms common to all other tilt and motion sensors. A must for vehicles with upgraded wheels and tires. Automatically self-adjusting. Older "tilt" sensors that aren't digital are prone to false alarms, so make sure you're getting a digital one.
Proximity Sensor AKA Field Disturbance Sensor
This digital signal processing (DSP) radar sensor¡¦s outer perimeter warning zone provides an invisible shield up to a foot outside the closed windows and convertible top. The interior zone instantly blasts the full alarm if someone leans into the passenger compartment. Especially recommended for convertibles and other soft-sided or open vehicles. This may be more prone to false alarms due to people/pets/animals walking by, consult with your trusted car security salesman and see if this application is right for you.
Ultrasonic Sensor:
This is used to provide coverage of a vehicle's interior cabin area. The sensors detect movement inside the vehicle by sensing air disturbance. They should trigger the alarm if a thief has gained access to the interior of your vehicle. Basically an interior proximity sensor.
Mechanical Hood Lock
The hoodlock is a effective way to protect your hood. Even if a theif were to pull the hood release cable it wouldn't open the hood. This is basically another key activated hood release cable. This may not work with all vehicles. Again please consult with your car security specialist.
Closed Loop Sensor
If you ever use a bike or ski rack, or tow a trailer, boat or jet ski, then the Closed Loop Sensor is for you! It's designed to hook up to your security system, and trigger whenever it's disconnected.
Mini Piezo Siren
If a thief is brazen enough to sit in your vehicle while the main siren is wailing, then this extra little siren should discourage them! Designed as a pain generator inside the vehicle.
GPS Tracking System
This system can work stand alone as a tracking system or integrated into an alarm to work as the ultimate two way paging system. Can be installed to do many things VIA internet browser. It's similar to what ICBC does with their Bait Cars. Works accross North America, has its own hidden backup battery system, etc.
CONVENIENCE RELATED
Keyless Entry
The most common add-on. Basically allows you to remotely unlock the doors from a distance without the hassles of using your key to manually unlock the door.
Remote Start
A very common add-on. Enables you to start your vehicle from a distance. Commonly used to warm up a vehicle during winter time. Most newer cars now require an "immobilizer bypass module".
Universal Voice Module
A universal voice add-on, generates voice in English or Spanish, either generic or Viper-specific, and can produce the warn away message.
Garage Door Interface
Designed to interface with remote control garage door and security gate units, for improved security, convenience, and range. Features two 200mA (-) outputs, and one built in relay for easy connection to normally closed or normally open circuts. Includes an AC/DC adapter, and two dual button remotes, or program extra buttons on your Directed security system remotes via Learn Routine. Now with 66-bit Super Code Hopping.
Trunk Release Solenoid
Pop your trunk open with the push of a button! A significant time-saver, great for shopping. May require some additional labor-consult your sales representative for details.
Window Automation System
Integrate factory power windows with your security system, for convenient remote control operation. Roll up windows upon arming, or use an auxiliary channel to roll down or vent. May require additional parts or labor-consult your sales representative for details
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