Quote:
Originally Posted by Gumby
but you have zero control over wave conditions - so that must make surfing all the more difficult.
|
I can tell you that at times, it can be terrifying.
I was held under in Oregon for a few waves after I had the wind knocked out of me. I really thought I was going to die.
For the next 4 days I have salt water leaking out my nose and ears....so gross.