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Just went there half a year ago. I stayed in both a western 4 star hotel and a airbnb type of place. By far, the bnb was light-years away in terms of overall experience. We were treated as just a statistic at the hotel, and 5 star hotels in China mean nothing it seems. They can build the buildings, but they know nothing about maintaining nice things.
The bnb place I stayed at was in a hutong. So, the old part of the city, you were one of 4 room facing the courtyard. I believe the place was called Kelly's place. Look it up, not sure if it's your thing, but I thought it deserves mention.
As for activities, the night market is pretty cool. Great Wall is a must, don't go to the close one, make the trek to the further or even the furthest. It's worth the time and effort. Forbidden city was also quite nice to walk though if not a little crowded. Good luck!
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