Quote:
Originally Posted by EvoFire
I went ATE 200 and steel lines on my MS3. I didn't feel like it made too much difference on the street, I don't think street driving is anywhere close to taxing enough to feel lines and fluid unless you were running 10yr old fluid.
Where I THINK made a huge difference was on track (emphasis on think).
The brakes were super good with the MS3 at Mission. Never fazed the car even lapping really hard.
The comparison is on the M3 where everything is stock except for fluid, at Mission it got more inconsistent as I pushed it harder. The pedal pressure and feel were inconsistent, the stopping distances were inconsistent, and I couldn't push on braking. Part of it may be due to the pads as the OEM pads aren't amazing.
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I think I'm looking for a strong initial bite. The first 20% of my pedal doesn't really do anything, I have to press down hard to get some braking in. Granted that's good modulation but also kind of sus because I don't know if I'm braking - which is how I ended up overslowing the car on some corners (track)
Interesting about the F80, I typically like OEM BMW M pads. They're dusty, but they stop. I think BMW M cars are usually undersized brakes. I thought that would have changed with the M BBK.
Quote:
Originally Posted by bcrdukes
Unless there's a reason for running 300V, your off-the-shelf oil will suffice. The savings had from off-the-shelf oil I'm sure you know is quite significant.
I used to change my oil after 2 or 3 track days and after sending it off for a used oil analysis, I realized I was just wasting money so I just change it once a year.
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The OEM oil is 0w20. From what I've read the 5w30 300V has the least amount of oil thining out on track. I get oil for life via a dealership package so my plan was to run Motul 300V, get an oil change done at the dealership and then get Motul 300V again for next track day.
The motul 300v is covered under FCP Euro warranty.
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